The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop what frame should i use

I have a 35 1 ton I what to update but still keep it a 1 ton so (s-10 frame will not work) i have a complete 99 1ton dually but just do not think the frame will work. so has anyone done this and what frame did you use

thanks
will

is their something wrong with your current frame?

I'll second Scott's question

My 48 2 ton project is being built as a work truck and a daily driver, and I think the original frame is perfect for the job. It also fits better than any other frame out there.

Grigg

Will:
You will be kicking a wasp nest trying to swap frames. Remember most anything is doable but I would do some investigating before attempting this.

Your real problem will be finding a drive train to match the original track width. These old trucks, even 1-tons, are incredibly narrow-51-52". I know because I'm still looking for a fit for mine.

Two years ago at the ATHS show in Brooks Oregon there was a truck about that year sitting on an '81 GM frame. It is a flatbed and the front fenders had been widened to make it look right.

I have pictures of it. This one shows the modified fenders. '36 Chevy 1-ton on '81 frame.

If you poke around at the photos at 2006 Brooks OR ATHS Show Pictures you'll find more pictures of it.

Welcome to the Stovebolt! I'm over on Bainbridge Island, RustedNuts is out in Kingston. HeavyHauler is in Roy and 10 Micron is near Tacoma. There are other members within 50 or 100 miles of Port Orchard, but those are the ones that immediately came to mind.

Often a number of us will gather at the Shelton ATHS show if you want to meet some of the guys.

And feel welcome to come up some time and admire my collection of rusty trucks. I generally have a daypart appropriate social beverage available, hot coffee, cold beer and sometimes others.

sorry i realy did not word this right
1. i have a 35 1ton truck
2 i have a 99 1ton truck for parts

i would like to keep the orginal frame under the 35
i am going to use the engine, tranny, and rearend out of the 99
but i come to the front suspension on my 35 its mechanical drum
i what to make it disc drake but also keep it 1ton
so i dont what to use an s-10 or a mustang II frontend

so has anyone coverted to a late model 1ton frontend


this truck will be used by my company daily that is why i want to update

oldsub i believe i have met you i own the gutter company that put the gutters on the new houses behind you and if it is you than you are the one that told me about this web site so thanks it has be very helpful

thanks for a the replies
will

Will I do recall meeting you some time ago. Nice to see you here on the Stovebolt.

Now that I understand what you are doing, I'd offer a some other options.

Several guys have managed to adapt disk brakes to the stock front axle on 3/4- and 1-ton '47 to '59 trucks. One of the best documented is here on the Stovebolt by OlBlue: OlBlue Disk Brake Conversion

Another approach to look at is what MobileOrtho and others have done using a '72 to '87 pickup IFS crossmember. MobileOrtho's IFS Swap. You usually see this done using 1/2-ton stuff, but the 3/4- and 1-ton stuff is very similar.

I'm currently debating the first two approaches for my '54 GMC. Since the two affect the approach to steering, I'm making sure I know the answers to that part too before I get very deep into it.

And a third is what Grigg has done. He narrowed a later straight axle to fit under his truck. Grigg's Disk Brakes. The welding on this approach is more than I want to attempt.

None of these were performed on a truck as old as yours, but the basic ideas should all be adaptable. I've seen a number of Washington frames somewhat younger than yours that were seriously rusted. Before you invest much effort in your frame you'd want to make sure it won't require a bunch of repair.

As Steve pointed out, my preferred approach to disc brakes on an old truck is to use an entirely new I-beam type front axle with factory disc brakes, then I cut it apart and weld it back together at the correct track width.
This method, while it works great, and is simple in plan, actually takes a fair amount of work and welding skill. If you are not comfortable with this method then it is not for you, as a poor quality job could have really bad results.
I have done two so far, both work great, no problems or signs of problems with over 10,000 miles on each, and both are real work trucks. I used axles that are physically larger than what the trucks had to start with, so extra factor of safety there. I also enlisted the help of a friend who is a really good welder, I have learned a lot and will be comfortable welding the next one myself.

The link Steve gave above is the first one I did, for an AD 1 ton through 2 ton.

This is the second one, done for a slightly larger 61 ford truck.
Skim through the pictures here http://rides.webshots.com/album/558384968mIheUE
I made a point of taking pictures of the axle narrowing process and put some notes below most of them.

Grigg

I strongly agree. But its not just welding the axle, it's a good reminder making any brake, suspension or steering modification. A poor quality job can be deadly!