The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Power Steering on '54 1-ton with duals

I'm ready to start buying parts, so I need to decide which way I'm going on this project.

Has anyone used the Classic Performance Products power steeting conversion on a 3/4- or 1-ton truck? If I understand the kit, there are two questions that matter.

1) Will the kit's steering arm work on the bigger trucks. Since the steering arms seem to have the same part number in the GMC Master Parts book I assume that's not a problem.

2) Can you mount the box in an appropriate place. This one is harder... I don't have a copy of the instructions for the 1/2-ton conversion, but I know the frames are different so the instuctions probably are wrong for the bigger trucks.

Does anyone have experience with this kit on a bigger truck?

My truck is a '54 (or '55 1st or a '51 or a '49, I have four and will combine parts as required) 1-ton GMC with duals. I plan to run a 454 with automatic and power steering. Disk brakes are part of the plan too.

I'm debating swapping a later pickup IFS crossmember with disk brakes under the truck. I have one with dually hubs so that's not a problem. I'm not excited about narrowing the crossmember and haven't seen anyone attemp this with duals.

The other approach would be the CPP power steering kit. This approach assumes I keep the straight axle and create my own disk brake swap adapted from what others have done.

It would help me make my decision if someone else has used the kit on a 3/4- or 1-ton and can talk about the result. Better yet would be if someone did it on a 1-ton dually...

Thanks!

Steve,
I don't have exact answers to your questions, but a few thoughts and ideas.

Narrowing an IFS cross member and fitting a 454 at the same time may not be possible?

I used a 78 IH Scout II steering box on my 1 ton, and it is a very good fit, but requires crossover or Y type steering linkage. so a bell crank on the passengers side will need to be made if you use an original axle.

For my 1 ton when I get around to reinstalling axles I'll find an I-beam 8 lug front axle from a step van with disc brakes, single wheels if I can find them or swap hubs, but dual wheels if not, and narrow it as needed. Not sure yet if I will have power steering or not, probably will. I'll look at using the step van steering gear box, as I already have one.

When I did the axle swap with disc brakes and PS conversion on my 1 ton several years ago I looked in junk yards and on trucks and vehicles any where, looking for parts I thought may work. Then pull them from the junk yard, or go to the junk yard in search of what I had just seen on the street.

You may find an even better PS setup on you own than what you may find by looking at what others have done, as there are not that many that have done what you are planning to do.

Grigg

Grigg I'm curious why you say that.

Both the IFS crossmembers I have are from big block trucks, so I know they can support the weight. While making it a little narrower does change a few things the suspension remains outside the frame rails and if anything the result would move the crossmember further forward under the oil pan.

I'll have a pro welder do that part so my so-so welding won't be an issue.

I'm really leaning more toward the straight axle with a disk conversion and power steering, but if you see a problem with this one that I can't solve that would end my indecisiveness.

Not having them in front of me, and just guessing from the independent fronts I have looked at and remember...
This is what I was thinking:
The front frame rails are really narrow on an AD truck, and so is the track width.
The independent front you have needs to be narrowed enough to make the track width reasonable, is this 6-10" or so?
By narrowing it you may close up the space above the cross member that the engine likes to occupy, then the engine either has to be mounted really high above the front suspension, or it just won't fit?

Again those are just my guesses,
What does your tape measure tell you?

I like the straight axle idea too.

Grigg

Mobileortho narrowed his about 1-1/2 inches to bring the horizontal mounts against the frame. That's more what I have in mind when I say narrow the IFS.

The straight axle approach is what I'd prefer too. But I feel like I have a better handle on the challenges going IFS, though I may be fooling myself there.

Running the 454 I'll have to move the steering just to fit the motor. Power steering may not be necessary, but if I'm going to move the steering box, I may has well add power too.

Disk on the straight axle looks straight-forward from the other's I've seen done. Getting dually wheels under the fenders using the IFS is also managable with a little creative work.

I have a '54 3600 with the straight axle and I have installed power steering on my truck. You are correct about the steering arm/drag link having smaller tapered studs than "some" of the 3/4 ton trucks produced. Having gone through this, the easy fix was to use the supplied steering arm, replace the two top bolts through the backing plate with bushed grade 8 bolts. This allows you to use the adjustable drag link with the proper steering arm on the power steering unit. After moving the shock mounting to the appropriate location, and mounting the power steering unit to the frame, check to make sure the arm/draglink steering arm combo is as near to level as possible. I mention this because you can use an arm that is made for a "lowered" truck to improve the angle if your truck sits low. I would go with the 1" tie rod, making sure the ends are rebuilt or new. I have had mine installed for a year and it has made a terrific difference. There is a ton of information to add but, it can be done.

I'm curious what else you can add?

I crawled under and around a 1/2-ton yesterday that has the same power steering conversion and is running a big block. Unfortunately this was at a show and the owner was not around, so I didn't get to ask any questions.

Looking at it, and thinking about my 1-ton I'm somewhat worried that the steering box is going to intefere with the left front tire on a hard right turn. How close do they get on yours?

Did you have any difficulty determining where and how to mount the steering box on your 3600 using the 3100 instructions? I have an extra 1-ton frame I'm thinking of mocking this up on, and may have to go out and look at it this afternoon...

OldSub.. I used the same measurements for the for the 3100. You are really measuring ftom the centerline of axle foward to account for the draglink. I made sure the wheel stops prevented rubbing the steering unit,(also the tie rod ends) on hard turns. Just have to mock it up and add space if you have to, wheel backspacing ect. When you weld up the mounting tabs to the frame you have some wiggle room for adjustments ( if you make your own). Really the installation was straight foward, the steering wheel bearing kit for the end of the steering shaft made life easy when preparing for the Boregeson joint. I also welded a support on the steering shaft cover on the inside of the cab to bolt to the firewall. Put it all together and it worked the first time...amazing.

I have the complete from a '72 3/4-ton pickup and was thinking I'd cut that up to make my mounting tabs. It already has all the right holes for the steering box.

I haven't decided if I'll use the original column or a later tilt column yet. This truck is a Hydra Matic so I have a cool automatic shifter already.