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| | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 103 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2006 Posts: 103 | I've bled and bled the brakes and the best I've gotten is the pedal about 5 inches from the floor. The truck stops good but that just doesn't seem like enough or is it fine. I really havn't driven it much either tho. What would be the ideal distance from the floor that the brake should be when applying the breaks? My brake system is rebuilt but completely stock and original.
Jeremy | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,962 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,962 | I wouldn't worry about 5" from the floor. 2" or less used to be considered a safety violation. If they are not spongy, you have all the air out. You have to remember they are not self adjusting. It wouldn't hurt to adjust them if you have driven it a bit. That should give you a little more pedal if you are concerned. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Jeremy, if you have bleed the brakes properly and have a solid pedal then the first adjustment that you need to check is the free play at the top. This is adjusted by the clevis on the master cylinder and should be a little less than an inch. Then with a good firm push (50-75 lbs) on the pedal you should only have 2"-3" movement from the top. That should put you somewhere around 6"-7" from the toe board. I believe that the GM minimum is around 3 1/2" from the toe board with the floor mat in place. This distance is set by how close you have the shoes adjusted to the drums.
On the Huck brakes the leading and trailing shoe at each wheel is independently adjusted and must be adjusted in unison so they both have equal movement out to meet the drum. If you haven't properly serviced the wheel cylinders then in all likelihood you are not going to be able to make this adjustment. They are difficult to adjust even when new and you will probably need to bend a standard adjusting spoon some to fit to make the adjustments.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL
Denny G
Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 103 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2006 Posts: 103 | I've rebuilt all the wheel cylinders and the master cylinder and replaced all the rubber hoses and the steel lines that needed to be, so the system is in mostly new condition. I just had no reference as to how well I bled the brakes seeing as how they didn't work when I got the truck. So I've probebly got them bled as good as they're gonna get, I just need to adjust the pedal at the master (the clevis)? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | If you don't have a shop manual you sure could use one. You can get one on Ebay for about 10.00. Well worth the money...
~Jim
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