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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 172 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 172 | I'm interested in installing an overdrive transmission in my 63 c10 such as a 700r4 or 2004r. I was basically wondering if theres anything specific i need to look for when looking for a rebuilt or used overdrive transmission for my application. Also, its going to be replacing the turbo 350 in the truck now. Would it be a straight up swap or would i need some new parts to install it? any help is appreciated. Thanks. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | If you're going after a 700, make sure that it's an '85 or later model. The early ones have a weak pump. If you do get an early one, the pump can be upgraded, though. There also is a lenght difference, 2" I think, so you will have to shorten the driveshaft. You'l also have to add a throttle valve cable from the carb for the kickdown. Other than that, and moving the trans mount back a bit, it should be a relatively easy swap.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 172 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 172 | okay thanks. now by shortening the driveshaft does that basically require cutting it and then rewelding the end on or something? i dont have any experience welding so i would probably have to bring it somewhere to get that done. and also for moving the trans mount, is that going to require welding or can i just bolt those to the frame? thanks for all the help though i really appreciate it. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | You've probaly got an aftermarket crossmember for the rear mount, if bolted, you can just simply move it back the required abount. The driveshaft would be best done by a shop that specializes in those. You'll need to get the dimnsions once the trans is in the truck to be accurate. You should be able to find a driveshaft shop by either talking to the people at the auto sparts stores, machine shops, or possible at the local race track. They can guide you someone that does the best work. Dpending on what's available, sometimes it's actually cheaper to get an entire driveshaft made that have one shortened.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 172 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 172 | okay cool thanks a lot for all the help. this guy i know around here that builds cars and stuff actually gave me the name of a shop nearby that does driveshafts so i could either have them work on mine or get a new one made like you mentioned. are there any other od transmissions i should look at other than the 700 and the 200? | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,097 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,097 | The 2004R is the same length as the 350/Powerglide but I think the mount is somewhat different. Also 700R4 is the commonly refered to designation but 87-92 transmissions are really a 4L60 which became a 4L60E in 93. The 4L60 can be identified by a large "rainbow" casting mark on the bellhousing part of the case. As mentioned earlier they are stronger than the early units. Fred
1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes 1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes 2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans 1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,749 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,749 | The weak link in the 700R4 is the overdrive clutch. If you're having one rebuilt before you do the swap (a very good idea!) have the rebuilder put the Corvette clutch drum and the associated parts in it (one more clutch plate). TV (throttle valve) cable adjustment on the 700R4 is very critical, as it controls shift points as well as kickdown. You'll also need the vacuum switch off the firewall of your donor vehicle to control the converter clutch lockup. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 172 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 172 | okay cool well i guess i've gota go to the junkyard and pick one up. any idea like ballpark how much it is to have it rebuilt? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | "Dpending on what's available, sometimes it's actually cheaper to get an entire driveshaft made that have one shortened."
Sorry to correct you Longbox but I used to own a driveline shop and was never cheaper to replace a shaft than shortening one which is a simple lathe operation. Perhaps what you mean is if replacing a shaft with a new one it is always less expensive to use a tube and yoke assembly than cutting tube to length, preparing it inside and then welding on two new yokes. But shortening any auto driveshaft shouldn't cost more than $60-90 depending on where your located. It's quick and easy for an experienced hand. I often did this while people waited. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I was going off of what's available in y area. Around here, the closest driveshaft shop is in Terra Haute (about 70 miles), they'll amke any length driveshaft for $100, new U joints unstalled, ready to to go. They charge about the same to shorten an existing one and rebalance it. I guess it all depends on what's available in the area.
Bill Burmeister | | |
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