The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop oversize rod bearings 235 ?

I have a 61 235 that is in need of rod bearings. Does anyone know of a supplier that sells sizes between standard and 10 over? I have been told that they are out there. Patricks has 1 over but I need 2 and 3 over. I am not wanting to pull this crank and have it turned. I will put a V8 along with new drivetrain in it when this fix wears out. Thanks!!!

Did you try your local parts store?

I did try my local stores but they can only get 1 over standard. I need 2 ,3 and maybe even 4 over on one of them. One place said they are probably out of production but still may find a few laying on the shelf somewhere but I haven't found them yet.

Slowgoer: Stick with the 235, it will outlast any V-8 and is cheaper to run and is way more COOL in your AD. You stated in your other post that your 235 had new bearings 200 miles ago and now you have problems on #2 & #4 rods. Who did the bearings? Did you put them in yourself? New mains also? Did a shop do the work? Now you have the pan off and are checking things out, is there any other damage thats visible to crank, rods, or piston/wristpin areas? Cylinders scored? How are you measuring the journals, with plasticgage? Calipers, or what? Do you have access to micrometers or a dial bore gauge? If so, do you or a friend know how to use them? The causes of bearing failures are many and without more info its hard to tell what going on. Stock 61 235 rod journals will be 2.311/2.312 inches in diameter. Normal rod wear will cause the shaft to wear into a slight ellipse and the bearing also. Stock oil clearence for 235 rods is .0007/.0028 (factory specs). When the bearings were changed were the rod/pistons removed? If so, possibly rods and or caps were replaced out of position, and /or caps mismatched with the corresponding correct rod. Were the rods torqued correctly? The rods and number matching caps need to be installed with the numbered sides toward the camshaft and torqued to 35-45 ft. lbs.. What kind of shape are the rods in? Twisted or bent? Maybe the large end could be out of round? If the bearings have dirt on the undersides of the inserts or on the parting faces, and when torqued will distort out of round. This distortion or excessive "crush" can cut off the oil clearence and rapidly ruin the bearings in 200 miles or less. You need to check the crankshaft rod journals for taper and out of roundness. If out of round you have to fit bearing to the maximum diameter. If the roundness varies more than .002 the crankshaft needs to be reground. The big end of the connecting rods needs to be 2.4367/2.4372 (stock dimension), and if elongated and or distorted more than .002 should be reconditioned or replaced. Also rod bores (big end to pin end) need to be parrallel to within .001 in 6 inches. You would be suprised how many bearings are hammered out of engines by bent/twisted rods. You need to check this this stuff out so to figure your next move. Engine bearing problems are usually pretty straightforward, if you know what your parameters are and what to look for. Pick up a shop manual for your truck and arm yourself with some information. There are alot of sharp minds on this site and we will help you through this. Repost your findings! taskforcetrucks :confused:

Its a long story but I'll condense it! While working on this truck I had planned all along to patch this engine and drive it till it quit then drop in a V8. I put new rings and bearings since the guy I bought it from said it ran good(never heard that before). I didn't care about the engine anyway since I was going to replace it. The body was exceptional. Just now, after alot of thinking and looking around at others, I've decided to keep the six in it. Yes, I did the patch job myself ( :o) but all rods and caps were matched nothing was done incorrectly EXCEPT, not planning on keeping it, I did not bother to grind the crank even though I knew it needed it. I just wanted to buy a little time before replacing it. What a huge mistake!!! If you could see this truck now you would understand. Now I have to take alot of sheet metal off just to do what should have already been done. I will have the crank turned and go with conventional oversize bearings. I just don't want to turn this truck into every other old truck with a big V8, auto, power everything. I kinda like it being "old". I will be looking for advice along the way, I'm sure. thanks

Keeping an old truck an old truck,way to go.

slowgoer: Great idea on keeping the six in your truck, kinda keeps the "CLASSIC" in classic truck. I do not know your ability/tool/budget situation, but whats worked for me in the past is to go to a wrecking yard and secure another like 235/261 thats fairly complete. There are many around and can be had for reasonable price. This will do 2 things, first it gives you a good source of parts (rods, crank, block, head, valves, etc.) in case your originals are toast, and 2nd it will accellerate the whole rebuild project because you can take your purchased block, crank, rods to your local NAPA or speed shop and have them start on regrind and recondition rods, hot tank block, deck, bore, etc.. And at the same time you can be working on your truck pulling the 235 and checking things out. And between the 2 engines you will have an ample supply of basics to get you going. Most of the aftermarket suppliers can fix you up with bearings, rings,etc. It just depends on your budget and needs as to how much you spend for pistons, overbore, and other parts. Two things I would suggest you do to your L-6, that is to have the mains align bored/honed, because the long length of the block they sometimes have a tendency to bow/distort out of alignment. And secondly have parts/engine balanced. Like piston/rod weights and rotational stability go a long way in increasing engine life and durability. The better shops have all the necessary equipment to do static/dynamic balancing. Good luck with your project!!!

Thats a great idea--- I may have a source on another engine for $100. It is complete except for the carb. and it runs(I think I have heard that before somewhere). I plan to start on this in a week or two. There has been alot of good info posted on this topic, I really appreciate it!! Thanks- slowgoer