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I'm stripping my frame down to get it blasted. How far does a guy go with this? I've taken off a couple of brackets...running board, transmission ect. and there is rust behind all of them. I don't want to take it down to two rails and cross members, then I'd have to either rerivet or weld them back in. How far is far enough?? John

Just that, everything that you can unbolt nothing that is riveted.
Denny G

amen to what denny said. If you don't unbolt every bolt on it BEFORE blasting you will regret it later. Every time you "unbolt" something you hadn't plan to you'll be touching up, painting ect forever.
Do it once....do it right.

I agree with Denny leave the rivets alone, If you have access to a Steam Genny ...steam clean the grease off real good before taking it too the blaster or use a degreaser solution & a pressure washer..will save ya some $$... grease and blastin dont mix and just adds time for the blaster man wich you are payin for blastin not grease removal.
BEEN THERE.
just a tip
Tim

SO you don't worry about any rust under those riveted parts? Or will a couple of coats of paint and primer be enough to seal out the air to prevent any farther rusting? John

John
A lot depends on what you're going to do with your project. I was going to replace my rear diff and suspension along with installing an IFS so pretty much everything had to go rivets and all except those needed cross members. You didn't say if you were planning on a restore or an upgrade. My finished frame is linked below. Good luck!

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2468275250099708909yMPppY

Look at it this way. I subframed my frame. That is a boxed or tubular frame welded to a "C" channel frame. Opening that tubular frame to coat the inside just isn't an idea that I would consider or an idea that would be smart. Rust will form then the rust will slow. Coat that parts as best you can, get into all the nooks and crannies as best you can and don't worry about the sandwiched steel. Unless, of course, your rivets are loose. Then you will want to address that problem.

Big Chevy, nice frame! I will be up dating mine aswell. Fatmans front and a four bar rear. So I guess the rear spring hangers can come out? Also is this weldable primer the way to go while geting things all mocked up before final paint? John

If your going with a 4 bar you can knock off those rivets and remove your suspension. I assume you'll be sandblasting. I would paint the blasted frame with an epoxy primer right after blasting. When you weld just grind off the area to be welded.

Big Chevy,
I just saw your webshots. How do you like the TCI rear leaf kit?
I have a 12 bolt posi out of a 71 Chevelle. It needs to be cleaned up and the ratio changed from the 2.73 (2.74?) that is in it.

I would also sugggest using a dark primer. I used gray epoxy and the black finish coat was harder to get good coverage in the nooks and crannies.
Dan