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#42129 02/25/2002 7:54 AM
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7
D
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D Offline
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7
I recently put a '57 235 in a '51 Chev PU. The engine is great, however it would be nice to get some more power. I would appreciate any opinions on intake manifold changes 2 bbl vs 4bbl vs 2 carb. Electronic ignition vs double point system, and the value of dual exhaust. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks David

#42130 02/25/2002 11:34 AM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 95
C
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 95
Dave: Welcome to stoveboltland. Come back to here often, as there is lots of information, knowledge and opinions to be found here. By the way, I watched the hockey game, and your guy's had the game in hand early in the 2nd period. Great game!

As for the 235, you cannot go wrong by installing a dual exhaust, like Fenton's. These old engines are really dependable, and economical, but they just cannot breath in stock trim. The exhaust will be a great help!

As far as the ignition goes, you can go a couple of ways. Pertronix, or HEI. Either set-up is far superior to the stock point system.

As for carb/intake, the best performance for your dollar with a stock engine, will be found in a single 2BBL carb. Aftermarket 2BBL manifolds and carbs for sale and info on them can be found on the swapmeet page and/or the links page on this site. The single Rochester is'nt enough, and 2 or more single carb's are difficult to balance and syncronize the vacuum/mixture and throttle responce, causing you to always have to mess with them often. Many guy's have had great sucess with the 500 Holley 2BBL and Clifford manifold. I think Offenhauser makes a 2BBL too. Check the links page for info and help.

Don't know your tool situation, but you need some basics for a good tuning. Need-
1.Compression tester
2.Vacuum gage
3.Dwell meter
4.Timing light
5.Torque wrench
6.Basic hand tools

Also you will help yourself the most by purchasing
a "Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual" for 1957 models. You may already have one, but if you do not, it's a must have. In the manual it will cover valve timing/adjustment and engine gen/electrical and torque settings, etc. All the necessary info you need to perform a sucessful tune-up. You may also want to pick up a manual for 1951, to cover your truck needs etc. But you do need the 57 book for your engine, because in 51 and 57 models had different engines. Again check out the links page for one of the vendors. They will fix you up with what you need. Good Luck, and repost.

Think Chevy! wink :rolleyes: smile


Houston? , We have a problem!
#42131 02/25/2002 2:47 PM
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 114
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Also check out www.inliners.org.


Jim
#42132 02/25/2002 5:44 PM
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Posts: 7
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Thanks for the quick reply. I have been following this site for some time, while also researching the truck. The vehicle we are working on is a 51 1 ton, in really nice shape. It is a former movie truck, infact it payed for its self by being in a couple of films, Children of Fortune, and Almost America, and Honey I Shrunk the Kids television series. Kind of fun to see your vehicle on the big screen. The 216 was in good shape, but I sure like the better lubrication of the 235. I have a well equipped shop, and have always done virtually all the work on my vehicles. They just happened to be British, MG's and Jags. I never had to improve performance on either, when your car is only 1400 lb it doesn't take much to get it moving.
I love this site, some times you think you are the only one with a passion for these old trucks. Next in line is an identical '51 1 ton, a deck truck that has been in the family since day one, and a 41 pu, that I picked up for $25 as it was heading to the hammer mill, almost complete, no rust.
Thanks again.
David

#42133 02/25/2002 5:51 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
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Posts: 2,773
Chevyman gives good advice. Add in a 3/4 race camshaft and balance the crank. The mild cam really opens up the top end. I've had my 235 up to 4,600 rpm with stock exhaust and carb, but headers and more carb would be a big improvement.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
#42134 02/25/2002 11:32 PM
Joined: Oct 2001
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My experience for what it's worth: Bored my 235 .060" over (244 CI)--.020 milled off head (not much, but I didn't want to have to run 97 octane in it).
Split the exhaust manifold--I hate headers!--(not trying to start an argument--just my personal beliefs--I think GM knew what they were doing with the exhaust pre-heat chamber). Split manifold helped some, but when I found an old Edelbrock dual intake with a heat chamber and put it on--it lit that 235's fire!!!! Used 216 Rochester carburetors. Had heard all the horror stories about flooding, hesitation, constant adjustment, etc.--all I can say is that I've experienced none of this. Of course my best friend is a retired Chevy service engineer that came up thru the ranks--best carb man in 6 states in my opinion. When he rebuilds one he doesn't just throw new parts at it--it's done right with every adjustment correct. I think that's the big secret to a successful installation of dual (or more) carbs--every bit of linkage must move the same amount at the same time or forget it. As you may tell, I'm tickled to death with my 235 now. Hope yours works out as well---- grin


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