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Joined: May 2006
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Shop Shark
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Joined: May 2006
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Help! I'm one step away from being able to complete my master cylinder rebuild, but until I know what to do next, it will sit on my workbench.

To be a clear as possible, I'll refer to the terms and part ID numbers as listed in my shop manual, page 6-24, figure 38 "Main Cylinder (Typical)":

How do I install the (#2) push rod boot over the eye of the (#1) piston push rod? Or, does the boot go over the piston push rod flare and the (#4) piston stop plate? Either way, it seems like the hole in the push rod boot is going to tear when it is pushed over the eye or the stop plate. Those components just seem too dang big to fit through the boot hole!

Can the eye portion of the push rod detach from the push rod? I see there is a flat on the rod portion, but I'm scared I'll just torque the heck out of it, and twist it to failure before the eye turns.

I don't have a go-by. The boot was missing when I took the cylinder off of the frame.

As always, help is appreciated.

Bill

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
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Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
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You need to take the clevis off anyhow so you can clean the threads on the adjustment rod. There is a hex lock nut. Back it off holding the clevis. Then unscrew the clevis holding the rod with vise or pliers. Clean all the threads. Put the boot on & the clevis.Put a little silicone grease on the small end of the boot. After you get it all mounted back adjust the rod so you have a small amount of freeplay when you pull down on the pedal till it starts moveing the master cyl. Then tighten the lock nut.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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Thanks! I didn't see that the clevice was threaded onto the rod. Mine is on there really tight. I'll keep hitting it with PB Blaster and heat to hopefully loosen it up. I'm worried that it is locked tight and any torquing is going to twist it to failure.

Mine doesn't have a lock nut anywhere on it. I'll check fig. 38 for reference.

Thanks for the input. It helps a lot.

Bill

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Bill, that piece does NOT come apart, the boot will go over the eye .... the clevis and adjustment is beyond the MC, outside the boot [offset shouldered bolt to pedal arm] .... not sure what manual you have, but section 6 should be engine stuff, section 5 is always brakes, MC is shown in Fig 6, page 5-5 and Fig 40, page 5-27 in my manual ohwell

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
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Bill, thank you so much for the information. I can't tell you what a relief it is to read your take on it. Try as I might, I couldn't get that eye off. No wonder!

I'll use some strong persuasion to get the boot over the eye. Once that is done, I'm feeling pretty good about getting the MC back together.

Don't know what the deal is with the manual. It could be a source of confusion!

I'll follow-up with my boot installation results and what info I can find on my manual for reference sake. Sure am glad I didn't go hog-wild with a big wrench on that eye! Thanks again for your wisdom.

Bill

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
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Riding in the Passing Lane
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Sorry. My mind was on a different model.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
In the Gallery Forum
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Shop Shark
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It is all put back together! I put some white grease through the hole and turned it inside out, then stretched it over the eye. Actually, I had a harder time stretching over the cylinder OD than pushing the eye through it. But it is all back together and seems to extend/retract as it did before, only tighter.

Thanks again for the info.

I forgot to get the shop manual info, but I did notice that mine is DEFINITELY section 6. headscratch

Now to finish the re-installation.

Bill


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