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The finishing process and all of its confusion.
The time was October of 1950; the place was the Chevrolet assembly Plate #21, Janesville, Wisconsin. The cab was in a thin coat of red oxide primer and the rest of it’s sheet metal was in a thin coat of black electro coat. And then the Mariner Blue enamel was applied, baked and out the door she went. That was the finish that lasted for 58 years.

So flash ahead to this past week here in Sandwich, IL and the attempt to erase those 58 years worth of use and abuse to her bodywork begins. Not by a real body man but by a do-it-yourselfer cuz that’s all I can afford. I’ve got the tools I need, I’ve got most of the knowledge of how it’s supposed to be done but I don’t have the experience in metal bumping/dinging. So I’ve been working every day on a couple of scrap fenders for the past couple of weeks to try and develop those skills. And it’s coming along sloooooowly.
I started on the real thing a couple of days ago and when it had all the layers of paint on it, it didn’t look all that bad. Once I got it down to bare metal, blued up and blocked all of the highs and low stood out like a sore thumb. Instead of a dozen or so dings that I thought I had felt, there appears to be an entire fender full of dings. The term I heard someone use once was, “it looks like a bag of Walnuts.” So I’ve got about half of the fender fairly smooth and back into shape but I’ve got a long way to go if I’m going to do this with an absolute minimum of filler or loss of metal by filing. This shot might show some of the challenge ahead of me.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2786342640098611668QfaKNm

Once I get the fender straight the next step I’m planning is the inevitable application of a “little” Rage, the plastic kind that is. Since the metal wasn’t treated with a metal conditioner when new then I see no reason for it now. The entire surface will be sanded and primed with PPG DP90. Next step will be a high build primer, PPG K36 Prima which I will block down in hopes that I can arrive at some degree of proper form prior to application of the Delstar Mariner Blue.
Seems like of the 87 people that I have discussed the finishing with, I have 87 different opinions as to how they would approach the task. Some say fill over primer, some say acid etch primer is a must, some say condition but don't acid etch, then there is the problem with filler over conditioner not recomended by some and on and on. So how does my simple straight forward plan sound to you experienced PPG’ers and ya suppose I can get opinion 88??
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

You're on the right track , metal conditioning not needed and by all means no body filler over self-etch primer.it takes allot of sanding !

OK Denny here is no.88. From another do it yourselfer I have used filler on bare metal and on top of K36 with no problems.
And like you I have heard all kinds of opinions on the correct procedures. Your plan sounds fine to me. Cleon

Denny,

Since you are priming the bare metal with PPG DP90, (step 1), according to the DP90 spec sheet: https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...eID=00d4601a-2f0c-4728-adff-94c7c5b64ea5

DP90 can be top coated with DF body filler. So applying DF filler would be your step 2.

Once you have the filler to where you want it, then according to the PPG K36 spec sheet:
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...eID=2896826e-e503-4c01-8471-58c8763921aa

K36 can be applied directly over the DF body filler and the DP90. This would be your step 3.

Not sure if this is opinion 89 or not, but I figure if PPG says this is the way to go, (and I'm certainly not saying the other 88 are wrong), I would tend to lean this way.....

BTW, DF filler is not listed as an approved topcoat for K36. Nor is any other filler it appears.

I would reccomend using DP90 before filling.
It adheres better to bare steel than body filler, and filler adheres better to it than bare metal.
As far as self etching primers DP90 is probably one of the best.
These AD fenders have a double crown,and it's more important to get them smmoth than straight,any waves you might have will not be visible, even if you can feel them with your hand.
If you only have a minimum of filling required, you might want to try a 2 part glazing putty,it's just like body filler with a
finer consistancy,and sands MUCH easier!
When you have your filler finished,reprime with DP90 followed by surfacer.
If you over work the metal,you could end up with stretching,which is a whole nother topic!
From the looks of the pics,looks like you're about ready to proceed to the next step.
Good luck

my back fenders looked just like yours i didnt remove one ding i coated each one with bondo fallowed by a coat of finish bondo they now look factory did have to weld one crack rather then spend hours on the finders if i didnt want filler id get new ones corse it would by good practice if you have the time but dont streactch them out good luck and have fun