The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Rear Axle Seals

My rear axle seals on my 52 are leaking. The manual calls for leather seals. Anyone know if there are updated seals available ... and how hard it is to replace them?

Is your truck a 1/2 ton or a 3/4 ton and bigger?

If you have 1/2t, there are plenty of suppliers. Leather is old original style. Newer seals are rubber. Just did mine and so far so good.

Craig

I replaced the seals in my '52 1/2 ton about 3 months ago and they were not leather. The old ones were a real bear to get out!

I also just replaced mine. I found the new ones at a local parts store run by an "old-timer" who actually seems to know something about parts for a '55.

There is some effort needed to replace them. On my '55, I had to remove the differential cover and then remove the parts that hold in the axles (refer to a shop manual). After removing the axles, the bearings and seals are supposed to be removed with a puller, which is a tool with a slide hammer. Since I didn't have one, I used 2 sections of 1/2 inch pipe, one 4 feet and one 2 feet. These pipes were connected together and slid into one side of the rear housing, through to the other side. I had my daughter pound on the end of the pipe with a hammer while I held the other end of the pipe against the inside of the bearing on the other side (used a long screwdriver inserted into the end of the pipe to hold it against the bearing). I stuck a rag between the end of the pipe and the bearing to cushion the blows. Anyway, this worked. Putting it all back in is a lot easier.

Sounds like fun ... thanks for the tips.

Here's a shot of the seals I installed:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/111968325/113654786tKvaBw

I did mine same way LT did with a long 1" pipe coming in from the opposite end. But I was replacing the bearings also. Since I was replacing my gears the rear housing was totally empty so this method was the only way to go. If you are trying to retain the bearings and replace only the seals, I don't know if my method is adviseable. Mind you that pounding against the spacers which the pipe will be touching will probably distort them so don't be alarmed if they come out a little tweaked. A big ole vise and hammer will straighten them out.

Regards

cmayna,

Where did you get your seals? The one NAPA is showing me looks like one of yours split through the middle. They have the metal face on the outside and hollow from the backside with one thin rubber seal lip. The ones in your picture look much more beefy, like the old ones.

Buddy in AK

Buddy,
Got them in a kit from Patrick's Antique cars in AZ.
[email protected].

A leaking seal can be like a canary in a mine warning of other trouble. Be sure and examine the axle and bearings for wear and slop. If there is a worn groove on the axle where the seal rides, a speed sleeve may work to provide a better seal surface. Another thing to check is the fluid level in the differential, and the functionality of the axle vent which releaves pressure when fluid warms up. If that is plugged fluid will be forced out through the seals. I've usually replaced seals and bearings at the same time, I just don't like going back....

Craig, Those look like two different seals. What is the deal?

Hello Cletis, How's it going? I am showing both sides of the seal. The one on the left shows the outside of the seal (facing towards the wheel) while the one on the right is showing the inside face which faces toward the differential.

Hey Craig,
Thanks for the information. I found a pair in town (not like yours) will see how they work. I looked at your Webshots, very nice!! I'm just trying to get my 55.1 driver out of my shop and on the road, then I can get my 50 GMC Suburban inside and begin the frame off on it. Your pictures are an inspiration!!
Buddy in AK

Fairbanks???? My wife is from Anchorage. She swears (though she'd never admit it) that it's too cold up there for Stovebolts. Glad to see all is well with you.

Craig