The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engines for Dummies

I'm very new to engines and cars beyond changing the oil and sparkplugs. I've always wanted to learn about engines and autobody so what better way than with a 1950 1/2 ton. With that said, I've been accumulating literature and books and think I have most of the "must have" books (shop manual, assembly manual, owners manual, etc...) It's sometimes difficult for me to read certain shop manuals because there is an implied assumption that the reader already has engines 101. I would appreciate any recommendations on a good book about basic engines. More specifically are there any books out there devoted entirely to the 216? Thanks

steel_red,

These links might be helpful:

How a car engine works.

Engine Reconditioning Overview & Tips
For your 1929-1955 Chevrolet Straight Six Engine

Tim

Bolters-

As I get to know my way around a new addition to the PhatBoy Phleet, a \'54 GMC 100 with hydramatic transmission, I'm stuck on some basic questions, so this thread is helpful. My '54 rig should have a pressure-based lubrication system, but where do I find the filter? Admittedly I haven't been under it much, but need to get there soon. I'd appreciate your insight ('cuz this seems to be a dumb question!). Second, I've read that this engine should employ 30W non-detergent oil. In looking at stores, I'm having trouble locating non-dtergent motoor oil. Any hints? SHould I be looking at a farm store?

Thanks for going easy on a newbie to inline sixes!

IF your engine's got a filter, which isn't a certainty, it will be a canister mounted on the intake manifold with a couple of brackets resembling muffler clamps. Not all engines came equipped with a filter, it was an extra-cost option.

Non-detergent oil has NO application in automotive-type engines, and hasn't for a long time. Use a straight-weight HD oil if you choose, or one of the heavier multiweight oils like 20W50. You'll have no problems using HD 30 oil in the summer, and 20W in the winter, but 20W50 will work year-round without any trouble.
Jerry

Jerry-

Many thanks for your prompt reply. Hope to get under the hood and check it out. If I don't see a filter, I guess I just drop it and replace often. I'll probably go with HD 30 oil.

Now I am feeling less confident in my knowledge of these things. I want to be clear that HD 30 oil is not 10W30 oil, right. Help!

OK, here's a short tutorial on oil, liberally spiced with my own prejudices on the subject. Getting old and opinionated does that!

"Detergent" oil was developed in the early 1950's, and was a very controversial subject at the time. It came about by adding a series of chemicals to basic engine oil that would suspend, and disperse tiny particles of dirt too small to be trapped by conventional oil filters. When the oil was changed, the dirt was drained out with it. Older engines which had run without filters, especially, would start to consume oil after being switched to detergent oil. The dirt built up behind piston rings, etc., was the only thing keeping them in contact with the cylinder walls. It's highly unlikely that any engine that's survived the past 30 years or more has been run without at least a little detergent-type oil. so using it won't suddenly start one burning oil. If that happens, the engine's worn out anyway!

"Weight" is the viscosity of the oil, how fast it can flow through a calibrated-size hole in a special measuring cup. Straight-weight oils, like 20, 30, 40, 50, etc., stay the same thickness all the time, only thinning slightly as they heat up to normal running temperature. A "Winter" rated oil is flow-measured at 0 degrees Farinheit, and has a "W" in its designation. For instance, "SAE 30" oil is measured at summer tempertatures, 80 degrees F., I thing, while "20W" is a winter-rated oil, flow-measured at Zero degrees. Now, for multi-viscosity oils- - - - - -

10W-30 oil flows like a 10 weight at zero degrees, and lubricates like a 30 weight when it's hot. It DOES NOT change thickness! It remains thin, like a 10 weight, regardless of temperature. A 10W30 oil in an engine with lots of clearance won't cushion the parts like a 30, and will allow it to rattle, and burn oil because the rings can't seal the thin oil as well. It can lubricate a hot engine like a 30, but it's just not thick enough. 20W50 is a pretty good compromise. It's not quite as thick as a straight 30 oil, but it lubes like a 50 when it's hot. It also flows like a 20 in cold start situations. "30 HD" means 30 weight, high detergent oil. It has the viscosity of 30 weight oil all the time, but it has the detergent-dispersant additives. It thickens up like molasses when the weather gets cold, putting extra load on the battery and starter, and robbing the engine of lubrication for a time on a cold start. The easiest place to find a 30 HD oil is a truck stop, as a lot of heavy-duty Diesel engines still run it. It won't hurt to run a Diesel-rated oil in an old Stovebolt engine.
Jerry

Jerry-

Many thanks for this helpful mini-review. Helps me clarify several concepts. Doesn't look like I have an intake mounted filter, so my quest for the right oil in quantity continues.