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#413203 05/15/2008 2:51 PM
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'Bolter
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I tried this in the interior forum but had no luck. thought I'd try it here. I have buckets from a late '90's truck. I removed the original seats and the metal base riveted to the floor, but I left the section that ran behind the seat. It appears that this peice is welded or riveted to the sides of the cab. Is this piece necessary for structural support or can it be safely removed? I've been trying to mock up some mounts for the seats. Right now I have them attached to 4x4 wooden blocks. By removing that rear section I can slide the seat back for more leg room. I also need suggestions on seat mounts. Any suggestions? I don't want to bolt them to the floor because it would be too low.


Robert C.
If it's true what they say, "You learn from your mistakes,"
I'm a Genius in the making.

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I dont know whay year truck you are talking about. I put a set of late model S10 seats in my 55 2nd series. I made risers out of 4x4 maple and painted them black to match the carpet.All that I had to do was use longer mounting bolts,which go right thru the seat,blocks and floor.Worked out fine for me.

Mobileortho #413283 05/15/2008 10:50 PM
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I didnt have to cut the piece behind the seat off because my seats were mounted above it, but it does look like some type of cab support.
When I put "aftermarket" seats (other than stock) in my '53 chevy, I made the brackets from electrical conduit strut . It's called kindorff strut. It comes in all sizes like 3/4"x1 1/2" x 8'
all the way up to 2"x2"x8' . it comes solid or with holes pre-drilled the whole length. It welds great and you can also use 3/8"or 1/2" all thread(6'threaded rod) top and bottom the rod with big washers and nuts,tighten your seat down and put it where you want. This way if your seat and strut is far from your floorboard the all thread can be cut off where you want instead of trying to find 2' long bolts.You can also buy spring nuts to fit this strut in case you want to weld your strut to the floor and bolt the seats to the strut. Go to any electrical store and they can show the types of kindorff you can use.
Hope this helps,
Good luck


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Got any photos?


Robert C.
If it's true what they say, "You learn from your mistakes,"
I'm a Genius in the making.

1950 3600
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I used basically the same stuff as Bowtiesr4me. I bolted mine together since I'm not a welder. I used a bench seat from a '90 full-size Chevy pickup, and it worked great.


My truck: She may not be the prettiest girl at the dance, but she's all mine!
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by bowtiesr4me
chevy, I made the brackets from electrical conduit strut . It's called kindorff strut. It comes in all sizes like 3/4"x1 1/2" x 8' all the way up to 2"x2"x8' . .

That looks exactly like what I had in mind. I just did'nt know what it was called!
Thanks


Robert C.
If it's true what they say, "You learn from your mistakes,"
I'm a Genius in the making.

1950 3600
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'Bolter
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Found out that Kindorf is a brand name. the generic name is uni strut. I bought a 10' bar and cut it to the sizes I needed. Looks like it will work perfectly. I did have to cut away sections from the short shelf I mentioned in the original post to gain some more leg room. I'll post some pics tomorrow. thanks for the suggestion.


Robert C.
If it's true what they say, "You learn from your mistakes,"
I'm a Genius in the making.

1950 3600
Joined: Dec 2005
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M
'Bolter
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The uni struts worked perfectly. I did have to cut small sections from that small retaining wall behind the seat. I also got a roll of insulation from Lowes that looks like it will work well on the rear of the cab. I then covered it with some carpet I got from autozone. I laid down a layer of jute padding on the floor then topped that with carpet from Oriellys. The carpet from Oriellys was a better quality than autozones. I laid the uni struts on top of the carpet then bolted the seats down. I finished off the exposed sections of the struts with carpet. I think it turned out well. I'm goin to buy a couple of more rolls of the autozone carpet for the headliner and maybe the doors. It's pretty thin so it should lay very well.


Robert C.
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I'm a Genius in the making.

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I used buckets from the rear of a astrovan. they already had risers. and fit perfectly

gazim #417751 05/29/2008 2:55 AM
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Your truck and mine are eerily similar. I too am using late model Chevy truck seats with the seat belts built in. I test fitted it yesterday after cutting away the front section of the original seat riser. I left the back section in place. I liked the low position. It made it easier to get in and out. I will probably fab some mounts out of 1/4" plate. Once I adjusted the seat back to the angle I liked, there was no need to cut sections out of the back cross piece. The headrest was already almost touching the rear of the cab. So I will just leave it in place.

I like you creativity on the interior stuff.


Kevin
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"The only people who do not make mistakes, are people who do not do anything."
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Sounds like you've been busy too. The riser had me sitting way to high. The leg room was good but the height limited my view through the windshield. The uni struts were perfect. The headrests had to go because they partially obstructed my rear view vision.


Robert C.
If it's true what they say, "You learn from your mistakes,"
I'm a Genius in the making.

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Mobileortho Really nice looking job you did ther with the seats ver y impressed .Later Earl


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