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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 103
L
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I plan to soon lower my '49 with a drop axle and taking out some leaves but I've seen that you usually have to get a shorter pitman arm. But I thought, why can't you just cut it, shorten it and weld it back together? And also bend the steering arms if needed just slightly to clear.

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Well that pretty much describes what I did on my '53. If you want to see the shortened pitman arm (I took 2 1/2" out of it) go to the photo links at the bottom of this post and look at the dropped axle album.

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Legally? No..

But it has been done.

Not sure why you want to shorten the pitman arm? If you don't redesign the rest of the steering geometry you will loose turning radius with just a shorter pitman arm.

Another option or alternative to cutting and welding is to cut it off and drill and ream a new hole in the now shorter arm.

The way I read the laws you can't modify any steering, not even to swap parts from another model vehicle, much less cut, weld, bend, or machine steering components. But if you want something different you have no choice but to make changes or use different parts.
When I do something like that I try my best to do it in a professional way, so you can't look at it and tell what was done, and most importantly; keep it safe.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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lazy j. although i didnt have to shorten the pitman arm on my dropped 57, i did have to shorten the drag link and drivers steering arm.
check out waldo53's album. he has a way cool truck and pics and tips on his drop.
here are a few pics of my shortened drag link and steering arm.

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/...00/?action=view&current=DSC01379.jpg

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/...00/?action=view&current=DSC01381.jpg

i have 3 welders, mig, stick and tig, but dont have a torch yet. LOL. so i couldnt heat and bend mine, so i cut and welded. had to cut the drag link, no way around that, but could have gotten away with heating and bending the steering arm, but cut and rewelded it too.
any questions feel free to ask, and post some pics of your ride.
leonard


1957 Chevy 3100 1/2-Ton
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The vehicle safety codes vary from state to state. What's illegal in one is not necessarily illegal in all.

Here in WA the code (RCW.46.37.375) is concerned with the condition of the suspension and steering components, not whether they've been modified or not. For example: "Pitman arms shall not be broken (DUH !) worn out, or show signs of breakage". Other laws involve steering gear lash, and toe in/out requirements but no mention of modifications. Heck, if modifying your suspension and steering were illegal the cops would only have to show up with their ticket books at any hot rod show, cruise, etc. and start writing!!

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yea, and laws were made to be broken anyway. LOL.
seriously, like waldo said, it would be too hard for the police to enforce,t hats for sure.
i rememebr back in the late 70's, my brothers friends all had big 4 wheel drive trucks, and the police would check the heights of the head lights. had to be a certain distance, if over that they would ticket them.
so allt he 4 wheelers would just make brackets and put head lights on their bumpers to bring them down.
there is always a way around a law.
leonard


1957 Chevy 3100 1/2-Ton
Photobucket pictures
In the Gallery
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 103
L
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Thanks for the help guys! Luckily I already have an adjustable drag link thanks to "6cylindersovertexas", so I've got that covered. I was mainly concerned about the weld holding, in other words, I've always heard you can't weld cast iron or steel cause the weld won't hold very well. But if it has been proven by other guys then I'll go ahead and do it if it becomes necessary. I've welded plenty and know I can do a good job. Thanks again!

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I would be very hesitant to weld a cast iron steering component.

You will find that most of the parts in question are actually cast and or forged steel, and they are weldable, with a few extra steps, mainly pre and post heating.

I have successfully cut and welded two different I-beam type front axles, to make them narrower, and each has over 10,000 miles and counting, one axle is in a truck that weighs 10,000 lb empty, with the better part of that over the front axle.

I would think it goes without saying, especially with critical steering parts... If you are unsure of your welding ability, then best have a professional do it.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,031
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''''When I do something like that I try my best to do it in a professional way, so you can't look at it and tell what was done, and most importantly; keep it safe. ''''''

so why cut and weld a drag link when you can do this the right and safe way::
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/draglink_adjustable.html
what i mean is look at the mod here
http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/?action=view&current=24.jpg




Jim & Caroline
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lazy j, yes, you can weld cast and you can weld steel. if you know what you are doing, thats the trick.
as grigg said, you gotta take precautions, like post and pre heat, especially on cast.
also, when welding 2 pieces of steel together, that are any kind of thickness, make sure you bevel, chamfer, both pieces to be welded.
if you are not qualified, please take it to a professional.
but anything can be welded, if you know what you are doing.
good luck.
leonard


1957 Chevy 3100 1/2-Ton
Photobucket pictures
In the Gallery
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
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Carolines truck,
That's a great tech tip, Thanks.

I took a similar approach when I needed to narrow my tie rod, I reused the forged part on the left in this picture, although it once had the draglink end as part of the forging, I cut it off and drilled and tapped for a replaceable end. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1484201859080251109FcfFHQ Bought new DOM tube and tapped the ends, one end to fit the forging with 1.25" threads, and the other end tapped left handed for the adjustment sleeve.

I have welded drag links together to get the ends and lengths I needed, I feel that is a good solution in many cases. However, if you need one to be adjustable, then as you have done and written up in the tech tip would be the best approach.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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