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#41298 06/12/2002 11:20 PM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | There is a post on this site that gives a procedure for replacing both halves of the old wick style rear main seal with the crankshaft still in the engine. I am asking how many have actually successfully done that. I have done the neoprene ones on the 261, 235 and the 194 but not one of the old ones. | | |
#41299 06/13/2002 9:13 AM | Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 327 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Mar 2001 Posts: 327 | truckernix, It works!! I wrote the tech tip on it and , it is, virtually "blonde proof". If you follow the instructions as written it works like magic. You will be pleased I'm sure.
ps
Use the NOS with asbestos.
Oly
Oly in Oregon Rest in Peace1945 GMC COE Victory Truck 1953 Willys CJ3B 1955 Chevy 1st series 3/4-ton 1958 WIFE Last series Never say "Whoa" in a mud hole
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#41300 06/13/2002 5:26 PM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Oly,
thanks. Is there such a thing as a seal puller or pusher ? I have heard the term used in this regard but I don't know if this is a homemade gadget.
Fred | | |
#41301 06/13/2002 6:25 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | Originally posted by truckernix:
Oly,
thanks. Is there such a thing as a seal puller or pusher ? I have heard the term used in this regard but I don't know if this is a homemade gadget.
Fred Bend a piece of brass rod. I've even used #9 wire. A rubber seal that I bought years ago for a 250 had one with it, but I don't think you get them anymore in today's cost-conscious world.
Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
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#41302 06/14/2002 12:44 AM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | thanks for the replies. This sure beats pulling the engine out just to replace the seal.
Fred | | |
#41303 06/14/2002 5:51 AM | Joined: May 2000 Posts: 234 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2000 Posts: 234 | I usually just use the old seal to push the new one in! Guess that's not possible with rope... The 250 seals do come with a specially shaped piece of plastic so that you don't damage the BACK of the seal when inserting it. I always use stuff like that because you know if they spent the extra $.03 to include it, it must be because the had to replace a million seals for being faulty...  -Boyo
'48 Willys CJ-2A / '55.1 Chevy 3600 / '66 Austin-Healey 3000 / '04 Volvo wagon (parenthood!?)
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#41304 06/15/2002 1:01 PM | Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 114 Member | | Member Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 114 |
Jim
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#41305 06/15/2002 1:59 PM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Thanks for the information. Having the actual tool will probably be an advantage. | | |
#41306 06/15/2002 4:11 PM | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 36 Member | | Member Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 36 | My local NAPA stocks the installer/remover kits for about $25 if I remember correctly. Remover looks like a threaded ice pick. Installer works like a Chinese finger. jerry | | |
#41307 06/16/2002 12:46 AM | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Boyoconnor,
the first neoprene one I did, I peeled a good chunk of rubber off the back and I had to go get another one. I would not have guessed that the machined block could be so sharp ! | | |
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