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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,157 Posts1,056,894 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 135 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 135 | Ok, I've put a 1966 250 in my suburban (52 GMC). I used the66 bellhousing. Replaced the pilot bushing, cut tip off of main shaft of tranny. I was able to hook up all of the stock clutch linkage. Everything seemed ok til I started engine and realized the clutch wasn't disengaging. I used the 66 throwout bearing, clutch and pressure plate. Any ideas as to what else I need to do? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | Your clutch plate may be jammed into the splines of the T-5. You really need to read ALL the how-to stuff (check Inliners.org site). My buddy had the same problem with the splines, had to take his grinding disc and elongate each spline, so the disc has room to move. Also you could have made a spacer to eliminate all this stuff, but now that youve trimmed the input shaft you'll need to address the spline issue. Also I'd pull the trans, then re-install without the pressure plate and get under there and scope out just what's going on. Best of luck | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | smitty,
I haven't done this drill so this might be bum dope. Is this a deal where the splines on the input shaft have to be elongated so the clutch disc will slip back far enough on the input shaft to disengage the flywheel.
I've seen folks mention using a cutoff wheel to grind them to accomplish this task. Maybe the use of the '66 bellhousing precludes the need for this procedure.
Stuart | | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 348 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 348 | make sure you cut the front bearing retainer, i used i pipe cuter, then remove the bearing retainer (4 bolts) make the position its in, put a rag over the front bearing and cut the splines on the input shaft futher back, use the clutch disc to make sure it slides smoothly before you reinstall. i had the same problem so i went to a clutch rebuilder and purchased a core clutch disc so i would not have to remove the clutch to check the cutting of the splines, and now i have a pattern to modify other t-5s | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 135 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 135 | Thanks everyone! Looks like I've more work to do!! | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Mark on the shaft where the clutch disc stops. Then grind the grooves till it will go on about 3/8 to 1/2 in. further. Don't feel bad we have all gone through this.
Last edited by Wrenchbender Ret.; 05/14/2008 8:59 PM.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 135 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 135 | Well, i feel bad because I've had that tranny in and out about 5 times lining everything up and building crossmember. I think that it has gotten heavier! Thanks for the tip and encouragement. | | |
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