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#408442 04/30/2008 9:15 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
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New Guy
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I'm installing one of the Jim Carter turn signal wiring kits on my 6V '48 five window. The instructions that come with the kit are worthless. I called the tech rep listed on the instructions and he suggested I just "throw them away." Nice guy, but not very helpful. I'm guessing that the stop light should remain a single filament, hooked to the brake switch (I've got that working.) The double filament from the kit has two wires. Again, I'm guessing one is for the parking/headlamp light and the other for the turn signal. (I've got the parking/headlamp working fine.)
Here's the problem: The turn signal does not work. I think the problem is at the switch end. The toggle variety turn switch has a fused hot lead connected to the battery; the other end connects to one side of the flasher. There is a ground attached to the switch and a ground running from the switch to the other terminal on the flasher. There appears to be a jumper between two terminals on the six terminal switch. There are two terminals for the right and left turn signals, and two other terminals with red wires running into the harness.
I have proper voltage going into the flasher and coming out of it with the switch on the off position. When I activate the switch, the voltage coming out of the flasher drops from 6.3v to 2.1v. When I check voltage at the switch, I get similar readings.
I would sure appreciate any advice on figuring this out. Thanks in advance for the help.


Montana first time diy rebuilder.
1948 Five window, 3/4 ton, 216 motor, four speed, six volt, mostly original
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Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
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This is hard to do by wording but i'll try the best I can. First thing dig the instruction sheet out of the trash. I should be good for a schematic at least. Every brand has a different color code so you need the one that goes with the switch. Unless you are using 2 extra lights in the rear you will have to run the wire from the stop light switch that feeds to the rear lights to the appropriate wire on the turn switch. There should be no grounds on the flasher & if the turn switch has a pilot light the switch needs to be grounded which is usually done when clamped to the column. If you have a way of sending a copy of the sheet I and the fellow Bolters can probably help.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, the instructions do not include a wiring diagram. It also references "numbered wires" that don't exist.
I can open up the harness attached to the switch, but I'm guessing you are correct about the second terminal of the flasher goes to the switch, and not a ground. The switch has a separate ground as well as the ground extablished when it is mounted to the truck.
Could you elaborate on the "pilot light?" I don't think this switch has one.
Regarding the stop light wire being spliced into the switch, I currently have the stop light independent of the switch. It is wired from the stop switch directly to an original single filament bulb (Basically, independent of the turn signal system.) I was reviewing previous posts and saw one that said the new dual filament bulb should share the stop light and turn signal. That would mean the tailight (controlled by the headlamp switch) should be on the single filament. I wonder if that would make a difference. If I did hook the stop light wire to the turn signal switch, is there a way to determine which of the six lead it should go to? Four of the six leads are spoken for and came prewired. The remaining two are for the leads from the modified tail and front parking lamps. The instructions do say to attach the "two green wires and two yellow wires to terminal 7 (right side) and terminal 8 (left side) on the switch.
I know this may be hard to follow, that's why I'm trying to figure out the logic and hopefully use common sense to get this working!!! ohwell


Montana first time diy rebuilder.
1948 Five window, 3/4 ton, 216 motor, four speed, six volt, mostly original
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Webshot Photos
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
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Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
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Most universal switches have an indicator (pilot light) that shows when a light is flashing. It will be in the center close to the handle or sometimes is on the end of the handle. With out a pilot you need lights on the instrument panel for indicators. With out a wireing diagram it will be near impossible to figure out how to wire it. If you know which wire goes to the flasher & the brake switch we probably could work it out. Post the make & model & maybe a fellow Bolter has one like it. You might call the manufactor & get something.


They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing.
1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super
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'Bolter
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mtcb,

Welcome to the Stovebolt. I can't offer specific help but will include a link to some wiring diagrams dealing with turn signals. There is also a Tech-Tip you can access from the top of this page..(thanks Cletis).

It's too bad these specialty vendors can't demand that their suppliers include proper instructions, especially with something as hairy as a turnsignal setup.

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Tech/SignalWiring.html

Stuart

Joined: Feb 2008
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'Bolter
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mtcb:
I went thru this same misery a while back--I feel your pain. I'd just like to encourage you to hang in there. I'm sure glad I did--what a feeling of accomplishment when I finally--got it! I used a switch that came in an orange box with switch wiring instructions that would have had better application for wiping up oil spills. I also had a truck wiring system that had been modified from original by a PO and no wiring diagram. There was LOTS of trial and error, head scratching and a colorful word or two. I still haven't gotten the column indicator light to work, but everything else does. I'll get that solved after I take care of higher priority items.
Good luck!

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Thanks everyone for the advice and encouragement. I'll post a photo of the switch and all it's leads next week when I get home to see if anyone can make sense of it.


Montana first time diy rebuilder.
1948 Five window, 3/4 ton, 216 motor, four speed, six volt, mostly original
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Webshot Photos
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
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'Bolter
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mtcb,

I'll mention this again in case you missed it above. Cletis has a sure fire method posted in the Tech-Tips at the top of this page dealing with turn signals.

It's in the 'electrical' section and it details how to figure out your wires without a diagram. Take a look, it's bound to help.

Stuart

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
The turn signal unit is not really all that magical or complicated. It works as follows, assuming it is installed with the brake light included:

When the truck is going down the road and the turn signal is not engaged, the brake feed from the brake switch is connected to both sides at the back. When you turn the right signal on, it disconnects the brake feed to the right side and connects the blinker circuit. The blinker is a small interrupter with a time delay (so to speak). It is connected in series with the bulb. First the bulb turns on and then the blinker interrupts, and then closes and so on. It works the same for a left hand turn. The really nice feature for these new units is the four way flashers. They are a great safety add on.


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