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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 23
P
New Guy
New Guy
P Offline
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 23
I was wondering if anyone knows of an late model vehicle leaf springs that work well on 47-54 suburbans. The lower sitting the better.


52 suburban rat rod. 350/350, 9-inch ford rear, independent suspension with 2-inch drop spindles, power rack, two-tone Mexican blanket interior, paint by mother nature
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 381
W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
W Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 381
Some guys have used late '80's Dodge Caravan rear leaf springs on the AD trucks.You'll need the spring mounts from the Caravan. Chassis Engineering and Total Cost Involved make a rear spring kit. I've used two kits from Chassis Emgineering. Be prepared to" make" the Chassis Engineering springs and mounts fit. Their "bolt-in" kit are not exact in their measurements. You'll have to do a lot of measuring and slotting of holes etc. If you are a fabricator , then no problem. If you've never done any modifying before then get someone to help you.

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 320
T
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
T Offline
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 320
You might look around. Most large cities have shops who do mostly commer cial trucks who can build a spring to your specifcation and would match the geometry of the existing springs.


1951 Chevy 1-Ton Panel
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Pictures of the restoration on Photobucket
Now cruising in the Passing Lane
RIP good friend.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,519
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,519
I recently took my rear springs to a spring shop and had them "de-arch" them. That, with lowering blocks and my truck sits right where i want it.

Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 23
P
New Guy
New Guy
P Offline
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 23
I was wanting to go the "de-arching" and lowering block method, but was told that my original springs were too rusty to de-arch. Would getting reproduction original springs and having them re-arched to my own specs be the way to go, or would lowering springs be less expensive and less hassel? I've been told that lowering springs don't really get these trucks all that low and that I would need to de-arch and use lowering blocks even with lowering springs.


52 suburban rat rod. 350/350, 9-inch ford rear, independent suspension with 2-inch drop spindles, power rack, two-tone Mexican blanket interior, paint by mother nature
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,519
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,519
Yeah,,,for most people the "lowering springs" dont get the truck where they want it. Thats why i used my orig. springs(de-arched) w/lowering blocks,,,on my panel.
WOW,your springs must be pretty rusty to not be able to use. You can take them apart and wire wheel them and they should clean up pretty well,unless theyve sat at the bottom of the ocean for a few years. Ive seen some pretty bad ones cleaned up and re-used. Just yesterday on my suburban, i removed 3 leaves from the front,each side and that brought it down considerably.
Looks alot better and not so top heavy.

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 320
T
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
T Offline
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 320
Another consideration is that springs fatigue over time and lose some of thier flexibility. Buying new springs for your drop would not only yeild the drop but should result in a better ride as well.


1951 Chevy 1-Ton Panel
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Pictures of the restoration on Photobucket
Now cruising in the Passing Lane
RIP good friend.

Moderated by  MNSmith, Rusty Rod 

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