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| | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 156 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 156 | Hello. I'm putting the 10-bolt differential cover back on the rear end of my '51 1/2 ton. Does anybody know how tight I should tighten those bolts? I can't find the spec in the shop manual, and a search of "torque" in the forums brings back too much to sift through. Thanks for any help.
DJ
'51 Chevy 3104 1/2-ton 216
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I don't think there's an actual torque value for the cover bolts. When I service one, I usually go about 25-30 ft-lbs.
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 156 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 156 | Thanks Longbox55. Must be like my NAPA guy says: Stop right before you strip it.  (I'm sure that's an old line, but he's the first guy I heard it from).
DJ
'51 Chevy 3104 1/2-ton 216
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,780 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,780 | An easy rule of thumb that works on just about any size bolt is snug, plus 1/6 turn. Just take the slack out of the assembly so there's no gap between the parts and you can feel a resistance to turning begin, then make a mark beside one corner of the bolt or nut, and advance it until the next corner aligns with the mark. You'll be within a very close tolerance to the reccomended torque setting for the bolt. (Works on lug nuts, too!) It's amazing how badly most people overtorque the wheel bolts on cars and trucks!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I would not trust that method on lug nuts. Most likely, it will be way under when dealing with lug nuts. Most American passenger cars torque from 87-155 ft-lbs, depending on brand, Asian imports range from 76 (Toyota), 80 (Honda and Hyundai) and '87 (most others). Full size trucks get into some rather high torque specs, GM trucks run at 140, Dodge is 135, and fords run at 150. Those are specs for 1/2 tons, 3/4 and 1 tons get even higher, with some fords getting into the 220 ft-lbs range.
I'll agree with the method described for covers and non-essential parts where exact torque doesn't matter much, but on rotating assemblies and brake/chassis components, torquing to factory specs is the safest way to go.
Bill Burmeister
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