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Hi Grigg,

Just checked out things on my truck for you. The "T" end of the strap uses a pin with a flat washer on it and then goes thru bracket and uses a cotter pin on the other end. No flat washer by the cotter pin...seems as though it should have on but neither on of them has one. On the threaded end of the strap, It has a SAE flat washer first, then a standard nut and after that it has a lock-nut. It appears to me that the suction side uses the 1/2" port. Hope this helps. Don

Thanks Don,
I was at the Freightliner dealer Friday, and they had a truck on the lot with my fuel tank on it. Just as you describe, although the pin had two regular size flat washers on it, one for each end, guess they cant make up their minds? Not that its that important, I figure they could get away with none, or the SAE washers, but the full size ones look funny.
I droped my brackets off for powdercoating Friday too, so in a week or two I'll install the brackets and straps.

Grigg

On Friday I dropped off the 22.5" wheels for blasting and powdercoating.
Also dropped off the fuel tank at a different place for Soda blasting, here is a picture of it, I think it looks really good.
[IMG]http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/63/663/5/56/24/2437556240080251109CCFBMm_th.jpg[/IMG]

Friday I picked up a set of used but decent Michelin 9R22.5 tires to put on the rims when they get back from the powdercoater.
[IMG]http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/58/658/6/45/66/2469645660080251109chrzjP_th.jpg[/IMG]

Still need to wash them and get rid of the 10 lug Budds they are on now.

Where I picked up the tires they also had a 5 lug front axle from a Snap-On truck, very similar to the one I have under the truck now, but with steering linkage that would be great for using the original steering box, and even with PS it's probably the axle I should have used to start with. Some how it jumped into the back of the truck too, and a PS gear box, and even a hydrobooster.
[IMG]http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/64/564/4/92/56/2024492560080251109VNDanJ_th.jpg[/IMG]

Grigg

I have really enjoyed reading your build so far. Just curious, about how much is it going to cost to have the wheels blasted and coated? Thinking about doing that on the fire truck.

Thanks, It's been mostly fun so far putting it together.

The powdercoater I took them to, who also did my frame, charges $45 per wheel for shot peening to remove rust and paint, and powdercoating. I think it is an excellent deal, and I know he will do a very nice job.

Grigg

Been working on the truck the last few weeks, had help form some friends a few different days, that makes things move faster.
New pictures start here:
[IMG]http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/58/658/3/31/90/2058331900080251109TjwEMM_th.jpg[/IMG]
click the small picture and then click "next" for a few more.

The fuel tank is now coated with Line-X on the back end and installed on freshly powder coated brackets with coated straps too. Flexible (braided stainless over Teflon) lines connect the tank to bulkhead fittings on the frame.

Fuel lines to and from the tank are 3/8" stainless hard line, those are installed.
Fuel filters are installed and all but one hard line made and installed, still need to make the two flexible lines between engine and the hard lines running up the inside of the frame.
Installed hand primer pump in frame rail behind cab and running board but before fuel tank, still need to order and make 1/4" stainless lines for it.

New oil drain lines installed for both turbo and air compressor.

Air compressor water lines installed, the one from the thermostat housing was not much fun, lots of cutting, test fitting, and welding. Also installed the oil line to the air compressor.

Installed the air drier, and all the 1/4" air lines for the air compressor governor and drier. still need to make and run the big air lines from compressor to drier and from it to tank.

Installed the first big air tank inside the frame, left side, had to make straps to hold it. All the holes are laid out to drill for mounting the three tanks above the frame.

Gave up on the second tank inside the frame, it was competing with the exhaust for room... The exhaust will be outside the frame from turbo to just behind the cab, then will go under and inside the frame, over the axle, and turn out behind the right rear tires. I'll give it a try without a muffler, but there is room if I need one. IF I had the 5th air tank the exhaust would have to parallel under the frame rail, and no room for a muffler, and hardly room to go inside the frame and over the axle just before the axle, and no room between fuel tank and tires to exit there..

Things are looking good for having a running driving chassis ready for the big homecoming at John and Peggy's the end of April.

Grigg

Grigg, it looks like you are really making progress. When do you think you will be able to fire it up? Soon? That would be worthy of some video. You know we love pictures, but we really love videos!
Keep up the good work. It looks great!
Bill

Hi Bill,
I was just putting together a punch list of the things I need to finish before the show (end of april).
Waiting on a few more fuel and air fittings, with those, and a good days work I may have it running, so with luck sometime next week. Still looking good for having it driving and stopping for the show.
Although I need to swap transmissions, and paint the new one still, otherwise if I run it as is now I have to put oil in the old transmission, the one in it, just to drain it later for the swap..

Grigg

Just about have the engine ready to start!

Last few weeks, what time I have had to work on the truck this is what I have done:
-Finish all fuel lines, put 15 gallons in the tank, and primed system with permanently mounted hand priming pump.
-Painted my "new" overdrive transmission.
-Removed old transmission.
-Drilled and tapped flywheel housing for a hall effect tachometer sensor to read off the ring gear.
-Count teeth on ring gear, 140
-Installed new transmission, and put oil in it.
-Tightened rear spring u-bolts.
-Mount three air tanks above frame behind cab, made straps to hold them.
-Installed all fittings and hoses for entire air system, including making four 1-1/4" lines connecting all 4 tanks.
-Mount starter relay valve to frame.
-Mount starter button/valve to engine temporarily (till I have a cab).
-Test relay valve, it dumps lots of air, and makes quite a noise, quick way to sweep shop floor...
-Test air system for leaks, one fitting not tightened enough, in process on second leak test.

Still need to:
-Make/weld together one 1-1/4" air fitting at the starter, and install one hose end and connect to fitting/starter.
-Mount the air filter temporarily in front of radiator, (need fenders before I decide final placement).
-Put water in the radiator and hope nothing leaks.
-Install a few feet of exhaust pipe.
-Check for stuck injectors/freely moving racks, as it has been over two years sense I had the engine running.
-Prime/pre lube turbo
-Get camera ready to take a video, and find someone to take it.
-Crank over with starter, fuel shutoff lever held in off position, looking for leaks and to build oil pressure.
-Refill air tanks and start engine, check for leaks

I'll try to get some new pictures up today, and post with links.

If anyone is close by and wants to witness the first starting, or at least an attempt at it, send me a PM for directions on how to get here. I think I will be ready Saturday evening(today).

Grigg

Hello Grigg,

I am spending today in the process of swapping engines in my daily driver 1984 S-10, so I will be outside for around 12 hours. However, after reading your last post, I will make a definite point to come check this website this evening to see if your diesel fired. I am waiting with bated breath...

Seth K. Pyle

Wow I have been looking forward to this, your hard work has been a big inspiration for my build I will defiantly be checking back often for the maiden running of your old girl.
Meanwhile I will be making the second attempt at fitting my engine and transmission today hoping it will slide in if I lift the cab a few inches since I removed the four unneeded mounting tabs that were causing me grief on the first attempt. I think once the transmission pan clears the cross member and seats down in its mounts there may be enough room in the tunnel so I don't have to cut the floor or install a body lift I hope.

It runs!!!

First off, here is the first picture in the newest bunch of six or eight I just uploaded, they show transmission swap, air lines, tanks, and plumbing.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2943974900080251109yQISIL
click the link for the first picture, then "next" to view more new ones.

Got my list of things done on the truck today, and this evening we were ready for the first starting attempt with the engine in this chassis, it has been quite a long time in the making.

Once I thought I had everything ready, water, oil, no leaks, and so on.. I held the fuel shutoff lever closed on the governor so the engine would not try to start, then cranked it over for the first time with the air starter.
The tanks I have add up to about 62 gallons, I started with not quite 100 psi in them, and it stopped cranking with 30 psi (because there was not enough pressure to hold the relay valve open). Total of 10 seconds of cranking time. no obvious problems, so I refilled the air tanks.

This time I let the engine have fuel, so it would try to start. With 120 psi in the tanks I figured it had a good chance, as that is over 10 seconds of cranking time..
I pushed the button, and with in a second or so it fired and continued to run, then in no time it had oil pressure. Still all looks good, no leaks or problems.

I have VIDEO of both the air starter exercise, and the very first starting of the 4-53T in the 48 6400. Uploading the first now, I'll post the YouTube link once it finishes. I'll also try to upload the starting one, but it is long enough I may need to go in town to a faster Internet connection before I can do that. I'll post the link here once it is uploaded.

This is fun! Past few months I have been frustrated many times working on the truck, but now I can't remember why I was...

Grigg

OUTSTANDING!!!! Big thumbs up, Grigg!

Congrats, Grigg! You've done some amazing work. I can't wait to see it, but even more, I can't wait to hear it run. Less than two weeks and we get to hear it in person, right?
Let see, two weeks and I think you got to this point a little ahead of your original schedule. So maybe you will have time to get a steering column in it.....maybe a brake pedal....I'm sure John would lend you his kitchen chair........ Just a thought.

Video of the air starter exercise


Bill,
Yep, a little ahead of schedule, I'll try to get a steering column mounted, and something made of wood to sit on.
But I don't want to rush on making the brake lines, as they are quite important. Either I'll have them done, or the emergency brake does work pretty good, and I'll keep it in first gear driving around.

Now to try uploading the starting video.

Grigg

Very cool Grigg!

Right on you may not have the budget, or the engineering departments that the big truck manufacturer have but your attention to detail and quality of work is making this truck far better than any factory build unit on the market. I am sure it will serve you well and the cool factor is though the roof!!!!

Oh super I see you are still here or here agian Grigg hope you are having luck with that run video I can't wait to see it

Awesome Grigg, Can't wait to see it run. Also very interested in seeing the process of fitting the sheet metal back into place. Love the red wheels too.

Paul.

Hey Grigg!

your truck looks amazing already and you dont even have the cab on it! i was looking at the steering in a picture and i was wondering if you could tell me what axle and what kind of steering box that you have on ther. I have a 1947 just like your 48 but mine is going to have a small block chevy in it. the original steering box is in the way and i was looking at alternative steering box placements.

OK, here is the video of it running after a long hibernation, only took all day to upload..


Spence,
Thanks, the axle is from a Chevy 3500HD, mid 90's. Steering gear box is 78 IH Scout II.
Front axle would need to be narrowed around 10", also drag link and tie rod the same.

Grigg

Man the suspence was killing me. It sounds GREAT! Congrats!
You must be pretty pleased, whats next?
Good job Grigg.

Thanks that helps alot, the vid is great it would be even better with some sort of walk aroud, my next build might include the legendary cummins 5.9 , but since i am only in high school i will put that project off for a while,
in the meantime i will need to upgrade/replace my rear axle for something that will give me better highway speeds without running the engine at 7000RPM

Spence,
Faster rear gears, with the same 10 lug on 7.25" bolt pattern, can be had from a 3500HD, or a P30 chassis with the 10 lug rear axle, best bet is a Dana 70HD or 80, as you have faster gear choices up to about 3.54. Some of these possible donor trucks used a Rockwell rear axle, spot it because of the square axle tubes, these have less of a gear selection, and why the Dana is the better choice. All will be disc brakes, so changing the front for disc brakes at the same time is a good idea, almost mandatory.

Grigg

What kind of brake booster am i going to need when switching to discs? i know the stock stuff wont be an option....

I always recommend a hydrobooster if you already have a PS pump, as they work much better than a vacuum booster, and take up less room.

A vacuum booster would work if you like them, but they do suck (pun intended)

Would be best to use the original MC that came in the truck you borrow the axles from, as it will be the proper bore, which is much larger than the one in the kits sold for the 1/2 ton trucks.

I actually used a ford MC and booster, the bore is 1.625".
The hydroboosters are the same from brand to brand, only how the MC bolts on is different, the internal parts are the same, same manufacturer.

Grigg

Grigg, nice work. Your last few pictures, cab resting on the back, give new meaning to the term "long-nose." (Couldn't resist that...)

Harvester

Thanks,
Yep, the cab back there does look kinda funny. It's just a convenient place to store it that does not take up any more shop space.

It does remind me of a cartoon drawing from the spring 2008 Kanter catalog, page 13, of a "Fairbanks-Dodge Engineers' Coupe" about a 1947 Dodge truck with the cab just over the rear axle, a really long hood with three sections of "butterfly wings", also running boards and railings set up like a locomotive. Really sharp looking, so much so that when I got the catalog in the mail and saw the picture I emailed them to ask about it, and see if I could get a full size copy to frame. One day (when I have money and time, or just lots of money) I would like to build a Dodge just like that, probably start with a model WJA truck, but instead of a Fairbanks engine, a Tandem Detroit 6-71T (one 6-71 in front of the other) would be more to my liking.

Grigg

hey really like the video it looks and sounds great, can't wait to see it done. that should be a fun truck, makes me want to put something with a little more power in my 1952 2 ton

Just finished making some brackets and braces to hold the steering column in approximately the stock location, but with no cab in place.

Also found a 5" chrome stack in the neighbors scrap pile, and installed it temporary, it's still really loud.. Eventually I'll have the exhaust go down and out behind the right rear wheel.

[IMG]http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/58/658/6/92/97/2447692970080251109Nwxfij_th.jpg[/IMG]

Got the shifter and shift valve installed and working.

Fixed an oil leak, one of the new 1" hoses for the remote oil filter had a pin hole, the shop that made it the first time made me a new one no charge.
Also fixed the one air leak I could hear, and adjusted the air compressor governor to 125 psi. I think I sill have a very slow air leak that I can't hear or feel, so I'll check with some soapy water when I get a chance.

Should get the pedal arms back tomorrow, had a friend bend them a little to clear the engine.

Still need to make a temporary seat, and start on brake lines. So, this weekend I should have it driving, but probably not stopping. The emergency brake does work, so I can drive around the yard a little.

Grigg

Just drove it for the very first time!!
Can't imagine the neighbors are real pleased, as it was 11:30 PM...

Made several laps around the circle in the driveway, first and second gear, plenty of throttle, and the parking brake works great too.

Even got a video of the first ride, but it is a minute and a half long, that would take a day to upload from here, so I'll do it Monday when I am in town and can borrow a faster connection.

Still have a few details to work out before the Homecoming at John and Peggy's next weekend.
I'll get the Jake brake working by then, and finish making the seat among other things.

Grigg

Wow I didn't know that they made a Jake for a 4-53 probably a good thing you don't have it working yet at 11:38 pm LOL

Finished the bench seat, two floor "boards", and even had an old tractor seat laying around that I bolted on the driver's side.

I started it a few minutes ago to move it from in front of the shop back to the garage, no sooner had I started it and backed up a bit, and I get a call from my neighbor about a mile down the road, the closest on that side. He said he "heard a strange animal in the woods", I asked "if it purred". He said "yes, it purred then growled.." He is a Detroit mechanic himself, and was out working on his truck with a 6-71 at the time, so no worries from that end of the road.
Now on the other side, that is a different story, they are only 1/4 mile away or so, and I bet they don't stay up so late, I should slack up on my late night joy rides till I get a proper exhaust system.

Grant,
Yep, they do make a Jake brake for the 53 series. I'll get the solenoid wired tomorrow and try it out, but I bet all I do is slide the wheels, as I don't have any weight over the rear.

Grigg

Hey Grigg a couple of 6' 4X4s and an ecology block over the rear axle will let you test that Jake but strap it down good or it will come to visit you in your seat LOL
You know that you have to give it a test before you put exhaust on it

BTW I use to run a Garrett 31 log skidder with a 453 in it sure sounded cool up in the hills echoing through the timber

Here are the two pedal arms after bending to fit around engine: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2201290710080251109brStfY

This is the temporary seat:
[IMG]http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/52/652/1/73/73/2424173730080251109quOqUP_th.jpg[/IMG]

Grigg

Fairbanks also built locomotives.
But for yours I think it should be a Electro Motive Division-GMC Engineers Coupe. lol
.

Grigg, congrats on getting it running. Be careful driving it around without the body on it though, it may be too much fun...

Made some upper brackets for my air helper springs this week
[IMG]http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/69/469/3/17/20/2533317200080251109MtVHuI_th.jpg[/IMG]
They use the existing holes from the axle bumpers
The bottom brackets came with the air bags when I removed them from an RV chassis with the exact same axle (4" axle tubes).
[IMG]http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/58/758/8/56/98/2651856980080251109LSnfpj_th.jpg[/IMG]

The chassis/truck should have a 15,000 lb GVW, as trucks with my exact axles are rated at 15,000. My frame, and VIN tag are good for 16,000 lb. The rear springs are only slightly stiffer than 1 ton springs, so with the addition of the air helpers that are good for 5,000 lb a pair I should have enough springs to carry the max load allowed. I still want to add air helpers to the front axle, but have not found the right bags yet.

Also this week I finished my brake lines, so I have brakes now.
Drove down to the neighbors and back, and it drives pretty well. Without all the sheet metal on it it's neat to watch everything function, and easy to see I need front shocks...

If I get a chance this weekend I'll do a drive by shifting through the gears as someone makes a video.

Grigg

You do great work. Too bad it's not a COE. lol