The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Rear brake drum 54 Chevrolet

Now after my 3800 series truck sat for so many years and I have started to drive it, the wheel cylinders are starting to leak. (no surprise to me) I bought a new one for the drivers front and I should have known the others are soon to follow. Three of the four are leaking at the moment.

The fronts are no problem, however what is involved with the rears? I have duals on the back. Is the brake drum held on with a couple of flathead screws holding the drum to the axel? OR WHAT?

When I had the rear wheels off I really didn't pay any attention on what or how the drums were held on, maybe it's just the studs on the lugs for the wheels.

Let me know what I need to do, got the remainder of the wheel cylinders on order, hope to get them all replaced and clean out and re-installed this next weekend. I just hope the brake lining is as good on the rears are they were on the fronts, along with the rest of the parts.

Thanks,

John Niekamp

On my 1 Ton, they did have the two flat head screws on each side. I only had to drill one of them out.

I had to drill a couple of those flatheads out also. After that the drums came off easy. I would be careful of using brake fluid soaked shoes if the leak got to them.

My drums were a little difficult to get off put some tapping with a hammer while pulling on them did the trick. The front ones were worse and after undoing the bearing, I ended up using a chain and a bar to jolt them out of place.

There are two ways to get the rear drums off. The screws are the preferred route, since you don't have to mess with the grease seal.

The other way is to pull the axle(s), which will allow you to remove the drum and hub together and work on the screws on the workbench. Start by removing the 8 bolts on the hub, which bolt the floating axle to the hub. The axle will then pull straight out, but will probably needed some massaging with a hammer to break the gasket loose. Inside are two round nuts with a retainer between them. Bend back the ears to clear the nut. There are special sockets for these nuts, but a narrow screwdriver and hammer can be used to turn them. After both nuts, retainer and washer are out you are ready to remove the hub and drum. It's heavy, and pulls straight off.

Also, if it isn't removed properly, the grease seal will be ruined, but it will need replaced on a truck this old. You can get a new seal at your local auto parts store, it was used into the late 70's.

When you go to put things back together, it will be easiest to have the drum separate from the hub. Slide it on carefully, or you will cut the lip of your new seal. Then put the nuts back on, followed by the drum.

It is recommended to use a thin gasket between the drum and hub. I usually use a coat of anti-sieze instead, it's there to keep things from rusting together. Clean up the threads for the flathead screws, and assemble with red threadlocker. It will keep the threads from rusting, will stand up to the brake heat, and will allow you to hit the screw head with a torch to break the seal and loosen.

It is also highly recommended to get the reprint of the factory repair manual, which describes how to do this kind of work. Cost is about $25, available at most any of the old truck parts retailers.

Ralphy, where did you get the info on using a paper gasket to keep a joint tight? Darn paper expands and contracts, allowing the joint to loosen as well as tighten. If the bolts are properly torqued, the pull from the stretched threads will keep the joint tight.

Not trying to start a feud or nothing, just trying to see the logic in your arguement.

I noticed the remains of those gaskets on my rear wheels last week (54 Chevy Bel Air). After some digging, I found them listed as 'Rear Wheel Oil Deflection Gaskets'.

They obviously aren't required, and their purpose is a little unclear to me.

The 'Oil Deflection' makes me wonder, whould this help 'wick' any bearing lube that leaks - out and toward the Wheel rim inner? Just a guess.