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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 26 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 26 | OK I give up. I have a 52' 3100 that I have been working on. It may sound like a stupid question but how do you remove the weatherstrip on the inside of the door. It is the strip attached to the cab. Is it screwed in or what. Help
westerman
52' CHEVY 3100
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 | I think it's glued. If your not saving it.....give it a yank. 
Bruce | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,383 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,383 | Nearly all vehicles are glued at least part of the way around. Some have push in clips in areas either way you won't be able to save it. You might be able to soften the grip of the glue with a hair dryer.
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| | | | | Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2007 Posts: 2,644 | It's glued, good luck getting it off without destroying it.
EDIT: I didn't read the whole post. Tim is correct.
Last edited by Czechman; 03/28/2008 12:58 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | It is the strip attached to the cab. It sounds like you are referring to the cab windlace - the weather-seal strip that is attached to the cab, inside the door openingIt is slid into the retainer/track (1959 onwards) and is not normally glued in the track (the track was pinched in a few places after the windlace was positioned tightly in the track). If this is what you are referring to, you will not be able to save it. It can either be pulled/ripped out of the track or cut out (run a razor or knife through the seal, along the track/retainer). Tim | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 684 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 684 | Yes you will probably have to break it up to get it out of the track it's been in there 56 years and probably hard as a rock. I'm facing the same situation on my '49.
Cleon | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 26 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 26 | Thank you that was it. It is slid into a track. Now I'm wondering how hard it is to slide new stripping back in. I guess I'll cross one bridge at a time.Thanks again
westerman
52' CHEVY 3100
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | westerman,
Do a search on "windlace" and you will find good explanations on how people have successfully installed the windlace (and good suggestion on combinations of strong words that help during the process).
Two suggestion after cleaning the track and before painting it:
1. Un-pinch the places where the track had been pinched.
2. Run a 12" piece of un-lubricated windlace through the track to make sure you'll be able to run the windlace through after painting.
When installing the whole length of windlace, people suggest using a lubricant, and my preference for use with any rubber part is a non-soap-based, non-petroleum-based lubricant. K-Y jelly is a name brand but there are many less expensive store-brands (water-based, water-soluble personal lubricant). They clean up easily and the residue hurts nothing. These type of lubricants also do not contain silicones (a substance that should not be used around painted surfaces or paint shops).
Finally, I think the 47-54 Factory Assembly Manual suggests starting the installation of the windlace at one of the breaks in the track near the top of the door. You then "thread" the windlace in two directions but it only have to travel about half the length of the track in each direction.
Tim | | |
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