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| | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 30 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 30 | Howdy All, Haven't had time to chat for awhile. Had earlier stuff under "old Family '29, which turns out to be a 1930. Anyhow, The motor turns over freely. I have a gasket set so I'll drop the pan and clean everything up first. Hasn't run in 35 years. Someone told me that it has no rear main seal,but the rear main has a hole that needs to be cleaned out (or checked). Any more info on this? Also since I'll have the pan off, I guess I could check the rod/main bearing clearances and remove? shims if need be. Any advice on that subject? Can I plastigauge them ? how many shims, etc. Any other advice? Thanks, Terry J | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 261 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 261 | The Chevrolet engine had a oil slinger on the crank that fits in a groove cut in the cap and block at the rear bearing. The cap has a drain back hole and has a check ball in the hole to control the flow. No seal on either end of crank shaft. Rod bearings are loose if you can move the rod cap from side to side by hand and just right if you can move it with a slight tap with a hammer from your tool kit. I would suggest you get a shop manual (reprints available from the "Filling Station".) it will go through the hold rebuild process.
34 & 35 trucks are the greatest
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 684 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 684 | I would plastigage the main bearings. Hopefully you will still have some shims for adjustment. Excessive clerance in the rear main will cause it to leak, as the drain back hole can not handle the excessive oil flow. Wash the main bearing cap with solvent and be sure that that the ball is free. Some people remove the ball entirely. But that is not necessary if it is clean and free. Good Luck
Cleon | | |
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