The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Timken 2spd rear axle help.

I haven't been around for a while, been busy working on all the house chores for the last few months, but I've got a problem that I could use a little help with. I got a chance to get the coe out a put some miles on it and discovered that the rear is leaking from behind the "universal joint flange". I can see from the manual that there is a seal in there that is probably the cause. This will be new territory for me and want to know how difficult it will be to change these and will it require any seciality tools. The manual has directions but thought someone may have a tip or first hand experience with this task. Thanks, Bill.

The 2-speed units are just overgrown versions of the pickup rear ends, when it comes to the pinion flange and seal. If it's got any front-to-rear slack in the flange, it's probably got a loose/worn pinion bearing, and replacing the seal isn't likely to help for long. The first thing to do is disconnect the driveshaft, and check for fore-and-aft play in the flange. If it's snug, but leaking, go ahead with the seal change.

You'll need to jack up at least one wheel, or pull the axle shafts out of the hubs (preferred method), so you can do a "turning torque" check before disassembling the yoke. This is important so you can get the correct bearing preload when you reinstall the yoke after changing the seal. With a big socket adapted to an inch-pound torque wrench, check the torque necessary to turn the pinion flange. It should be somewhwre in the 20 to 50 inch-pound range on the big rear axle. (Just guessing here, but they're stiffer than the pickup third members.)

Remove the pinion nut, (Probably VERY tight) and slide the yoke off the input shaft. If it's tight on the spline, it might take a little BFH work. Pry out the old seal, and carefully install the new one, with the sealing lip facing inward toward the gear oil it's trying to seal. Lube the lip seal with a little gear oil, never install one dry! Reinstall the yoke, after inspecting the seal surface for burrs or wear. Sometimes there will be a ring worn in the seal area where tht old seal was running. If so either replace the yoke, or install a "speedy sleeve", a thin, flat ring that goes over the seal area to smooth it out. Most bearing-supply places will have them, or be able to order one. Retighten the pinion nut until the turning torque is the same as before you removed the flange. This might take a LONG wrench and a lot of effort! Reassemble everything, check the lube level, and drive on!
Jerry

Thanks, Jerry for your help. It looks like I have a little work ahead of me to get this fixed correctly. Sounds like you are very familiar with this type of work. You aren't planning a summer vacation in say the Baltimore area in the next month or so and love to do this kind of work so much you would to come by and do this for me would you?
Thanks again for your responce, Bill.

Yep, I've rebuilt drive axles for about 40 years, including the big double-reduction military units, 18-wheelers, etc. Sorry, I don't have any plans to be in your area anytime soon, as us redneck rebel boys don't travel north very often! (But when we did, we made quite an impression!) Come on down, and we'll tinker a little in my shop!
Jerry

Thanks again Jerry, I appreciate your help. If I run into any problems I may be looking for your experienced advice again. Take care, Bill.