The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Little Advice Needed

Hi Guys and Gals. Working on my 51 3600, Both cab fronts were rusted out really bad in front of the doors. Purchased 2 patch panels as well as the inner braces. Went to work and drilled out all the spot welds and melted the lead from the seam. I have the new panel in place and here is my delema. Do I just weld the whole seam grind it down and put a light skim of bondo to finish, or should I hire someone to relead the seam and do not weld it. Thanks for your Help
Robin

I am sure someone will chime in on the best approach, I would prob. just mig it in and skim coat it, Leading the seam would last a lot longer but be a bit more of a hit on the checkbook.
It all depends on your tastes, I prefer the lead myself that is what I payed for on my panels ...an it was not cheap to get it done by a professional with the expierience if you have access to one.
just my thoughts

How original are you wanting to stay? Are you looking to win shows with originality? or just a personal play truck? If the latter, I wouldn't bother with the lead. Mig is a bunch easier, faster, and will look just fine. However, if you are going for a show truck, every bit of originality counts.
Just my $0.02
Gator
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Nope shes is just going to be a resto mod. Not to much original front end is a Mustang II Ford rear end 350 SBC 700R Tranny. I was hoping I could get away with welding.
Robin

Weld.
Cheaper, faster, and stronger.
Laterz,
Gator
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Regardless of what you use, lead or plastic, you have to weld the seam. Lead is just a filler and ads no structural strength.

If it were me, I'd weld it and mud it.

Plastic is todays modern lead filler, and it's lighter and more user friendly,
Scott

I came across a product called " Liquid Metal " and then the labels were changed to " Plastic Metal " same stuff, different name. It comes in a tube for around 8 bucks. You can sand it, drill it etc. Easy as heck to work with. The stuff was great. All made up, no hardeners etc. Before I applied that I used " Rust-Mort " It stops rust from spreading. Hope this helps. Now that i found this product, its bye bye to bondo for me.

I'd go easy with any one-part filler. They dry through liquid evaporation and will probably shrink as a result of losing their volume. Spot putty is a good example... too thick looks good for a couple months and until it's done shrinking.

I agree with you Czechman. One body shop I worked in, the owner came around to all our tool boxes, collected tubes of spot putty from any of us that had it and threw it all away, then told us if he found any again we were fired. It is basicly thick primer in a tube and will shrink.