The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 oil filter relocation kit

Ok maybe a silly question. However here we go.

my 235 has a factory oil filter canister mounted to the intake. I'm considering trying to mount a remote filter kit. But I don't want to kill the look of the engine compartment. I know others on here have done this. I need ideas. I checked speedway and the kit for chevys has been discontinued. Any thoughts would be wonderful.

Thanks..

OK after a brief search on the HAMB I see that many have relocated their oil filter to the fire wall. This type filtration is new to me. Where do you get the elements? If they are available I may just relocate mine. Any infor would be great. Thanks.

i asked about this a long time ago, people running them filters have done some machine work to the oil passages. A stock 235 filter setup pulls the oil from the passage, filters it and dumps it back into the oil pan. What they do, is modify the passages so the oil goes directly from the oil pump, to the filter and then back into the oil passage.

here is the thread i created
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/12487/Number/82942#Post82942

and here is what i was talking about modifying the oil passages
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/full_pressure.htm



Now if your looking at purchasing a bypass filter relocation kit then you can throw all I said out, but if your thinking about using a remote filter kit that uses modern filters as far as ive been told it can't be used inplace of a bypass filter.

Why don't you mount your bypass filter canister to the firewall and get longer hoses if you need them.

Thanks Guys, Ghostrider,

I have a master and booster along with clutch cylinder mounted to the drivers side fire wall making location in this area cumbersom for filter r/r. as for the passengers side, well there is a Deluxe heater installed so may be the same situation there I will have to look into it further. I under stand that these engines may or may not have had a filter so filter deletion is also a possibility.

Thanks..

I mounted mine to the left inner fender. I'm running a full flow 261 filter, no issues at all. As to wheather or not a full flow filter can be used on a bypass system, the engine won't know the difference, the oil will still flow through it. As long as the filter isn't plugged up, there won't be any problems.

hey longbox,

do you have a pic of the filter relocation you did? i am looking at a 261 for my 46 and having seen the OF on the intk man. i think i would like to relocate it to clean up the left side of the engine. as you have already done so, can i take a look? thanks

You sure can!
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2930928350092261295dryLgT
Mine is a 235, so it's being used as a bypass filter.

I made a braket and installed a spin on adapter on the drivers side frame in front of the axel. The filter is below the frame and is removed and replaced from under the truck. I just purchased longer hoses to move it to that location. I do not know if you could relocate your drop in filter housing from the intake manifold down to the frame just in front of the steering box. The diameter might cause you clearence problems, but maybe not.

Just another option....I relocated my full flow filter on a modified 235 to the firewall. Found that this solved a couple problems. First of all, it placed the mount in a position where it was easy to change without having to crawl under the truck and eliminated any mess from a filter change. A slightly modified plastic milk jug slips under the filter and catches the oil and filter. Secondly, the firewall mount makes it easy to charge the new filter cartridge with oil and reinstall. To me this is a critical step in eliminating the time lapse during pressure buildup after a change. It should be noted that the a 3/4X16 thread mount should be used with a filter with a built-in bypass valve. Example: Purolator PL30001

Although I am not a great fan of the stock by-pass filter system, the correct relocation mount, using the small diamter lines, should get the cannister off the intake and simplify the filter change process. Care should be taken to isolate the lines from the exhaust pipe(s). I have pictures of my install in my webshots.

After 4000 miles I've noted no problems with drainback from the higher mount and my oil temp runs right at 180 degrees at the filter. If you're determined to use the bypass filter system, this relocation might be a viable option.

Dave

For a spin-on/bypass setup I suggest mounting to the oil pan like this:
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w186/curt160/filters/?action=view&current=Picture002.jpg

or to the intake like this:
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w186/curt160/filters/?action=view&current=amsoil4.jpg

or make something to hold whatever filter you want:
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w186/curt160/filters/?action=view&current=smallspinon2.jpg

Eliminating hoses can be done several ways which I think is cleanest and safest.

I've been pondering the same thing. I will be installing a 261 in place of the 235 next winter and will be showcasing the engine w/ a 2x1 intake. That means no oil filter on the intake!
I'm thinking a custom set-up MUCH like the third pic from Curt B.
I still would like to see some pics of a firewall setup if anyone can post. Thanks!!!

1960 261 with remote firewall-mounted spin-on full-flow oil filter. When this engine gets put back into a 54 Suburban this spring, I plan to mount the original canister oil-filter on the intake manifold (I think it looked better there - each to their own)

Ok Curt B. Is the third picture an after market kit? Or your own creation? I like it and would be something I would consider. I've looked at the kits that Speedway sells. But not sure that they are as clean looking as the third picture.

If you have info that would be great.

Thanks

I have a 261 and located the oil filter just below the alternator on a bracket I designed. Mounted to existing engine mount bolt holes. Filter is in a perfect position for removal for changes. Hard piped it in stainless steel because the lines for full flow ran close to the exhaust down pipes on the duals. Some pics in the engine rebuild album.