The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop brake bleeder blues

I just broke off the bleeder valve in my 42's front brake cylinder. I tried heating and cooling and easy-out etc. but had no luck. Just basically tore up the valve. Is there any way I can drill out the old valve and tap in new threads? Will I need a special drill bit (like a recessed bit)? Will a new valve seat properly if I re-drill and re-threat?
Thanks

I think the threads are UNF threads. The seat is past the threads a little way, so if you don't nick it and use a bottoming tap for the last few turns you should be fine. What size brake cylinder is it? If it is the same as a 1950 huck cylinder I have a set of decent cores I could part with, ping me offlist. I just removed them from my truck, and I can hone them for you. You will need to kit them. To check to make sure on the threads, buy a new bleeder and check the tap against it. Those bleeders can really stick in there. Be careful using heat so you don't warp the cylinder.

i always put antiseze on brake bleeder screws and that works to avoid that

put antiseze on all most all bolts and the guys that have to remove them again will thank you

chris42pu,

This is "closing the gate after the horse is gone" but, I've found that approaching old bleeder screws with a GOOD SIX-POINT, 1/4 drive socket (SAE or Metric, whichever fits best!)and GENTLY rocking, first "tightening", then "loosening" ever so slightly, until you feel the screw free-up.
(A good soaking with PB Blaster beforehand helps.)
Usually, the first "tightening" action breaks the screw free, and it loosens-up pretty good.
I 've had good result with this method, but a good part of its sucess is contingent upon your own ability to sense when a bolt about to snap-off; having broken many in my lifetime, I've learned to be careful.

If someone's already round the hex off the screw, you can try the same approach with a GOOD pair of Vise-Grips (works easier with the cyl in a good vise); the screw is usually "toast" by this point, but replacement screws aren't hard to get.

Good luck!

Did you check with the parts store to see if you can get a new cylinder? 42's are older than I know about on that stuff, and broken bleeders are a real PITA to get out.

I am a big fan of setting a nut on the broken part, and mig welding it to the nut through the hole in the nut. Then use a socket on the nut to back out the whole assembly. The mig welder has helped me recover from a lot of OOPSes.
David

Bleeder repair kits are readily available at good parts stores. Drill it out oversize and re-tap to typically 1/8" or 1/4" pipe. The repair bleeder contains the seat so no worries of nicking it. Works well.

Thanks everyone for the input and great advise on how to avoid this in the future. However I have been told once never to use antiseze on bleeder vavles. I am not sure why...maybe to prevent it from entering the cylinder. And thank you chuckthetruck for the specific information on repairing the cylinder I already destroyed

when you use anti on the threads it prevents air and water to settle and rust the bleeder screws again

I have been in the same situation with wheel cylinders before.I have found that replacing them solves many problems.once you have figured your time in rebuliding a worn part and taking the chance of crashing your cool ride,not to mention possibly hurting or killing yourself or someone else,,,,,,,,,I`ll replace the cylinder!

However, if it is in good shape, I will rebuild it!