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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | | Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | I have a TCI mustang II kit I am installing, for those who have done it where did you weld your boxing plates? inside the frame rails so it is flush or to the outside edges of the frame rail? I saw an article somewhere where someone had done it with step by step pics but can't seem to find it | | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 12 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 12 | I put in a same unit in my 37 chevy pickup and I boxed it to the outside edge, then ground the welds smooth. You will find that the cross member will fit tighter this way. If you box on the inside you will have to trim the boxing plates so they will fit flush. It probly tells you in like step 5 or 6 that you will need to cut a C notch in the frame to have clearance for the steering rack, don't worry it's easy just take your time and make sure your measurements are right before you finish welding every thing up. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | 37 is right, the plate should fit flush with the frame rail.
~Jim
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 180 | 37 is right, the plate should fit flush with the frame rail. did you tilt the front of your crossmember up in the front any? I called TCI and they recomended angling the front up 1 to 3 degrees to compensate for the rake of the frame front to rear. this is so the the tie rods stay paralel to the lower control arms. thet also said when they install them they actually put a thin sawblade between the boxing plate and the edge of the frame as a spacer when they tack it in place. then they are able to fill the gap created with weld. any thoughts on this? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | OK, the more I think about it (it's been almost 2 years) my Heidt's came with the geometry built in. In other words I didn't have to make any adjustments.
~Jim
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 677 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 677 | "my Heidt's came with the geometry built in ALSO. I didn't have to make any adjustments AT ALL." 
Some people are like Slinkies, Their not really good for nothing... But they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down the stairs. 1951 3100 350 TBI Gallery Toddzilla... "$old" | | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 |
Last edited by R-Bo; 03/12/2008 3:30 AM.
R-Bo
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction)
1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 12 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 12 | No I didn't tilt the crossmember and the tierods are paralel to the lower A arms. I've built dirt track cars for 28 years, and this is the 3rd street rod I've done ( 63 chevy stepside and a 56 chevy post) and I have never had to tilt the cross member. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 866 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 866 | I used the TCI and didn't have to tilt the crossmember either!!! | | |
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