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| | Forums66 Topics126,780 Posts1,039,295 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 | I added dropped coils to the front of the truck. I like the way it sits but it hits the top of the rubber stops. If I put the original springs back in,(I had cut off 1 1/2 coils off to lower it) do you think that dropped spindles will help?
Robert C. If it's true what they say, "You learn from your mistakes," I'm a Genius in the making. 1950 3600 | | | | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 95 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2007 Posts: 95 | First: you should never cut coil springs. Second: you need to change your bump stop rubbers to a lower type. Third: whats up with the missing front swaybar? Fourth: drop spindles are expensive, but seem to help keep all the stock geometry while giving you the ride hieght you desire. | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | What underdog said. But then rodders have been cutting coils for as long as coils have been around. It's a cheap-and-dirty way of lowering. 1 and a half coils isn't excessive. I'd look for a different bumper arrangement. OR - since this isn't working anyway, cut the bumpers in half, or maybe even a little more, and give it a try - what have you got to lose?
The bottom A-arm looks pretty level, that's good, but the steering tie rod is tilted up towards the wheel, this may leave you with some bump-steer. Again, try it out first, then look for a solution if it isn't working right. You might be able to flip the tie-rod end at the steering arm, letting it ride under the arm and thus leveling it out, or heat and bend the steering arm down.
Dropped spindles eliminate most of the problems encountered with lowered cars/trucks, but they are spendy $$$$. | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 | The swaybar will be added after I buy new bushings. Will try to cut the bumper stops down a bit to see how that works. Waldo, thanks for the info on the A-arm.
Robert C. If it's true what they say, "You learn from your mistakes," I'm a Genius in the making. 1950 3600 | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 | Just found some more bumpers. Looks like I can us the same ones from the top which are about half the height of the bottom ones.
Robert C. If it's true what they say, "You learn from your mistakes," I'm a Genius in the making. 1950 3600 | | | | Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 12 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Feb 2008 Posts: 12 | Eather change the bump stops for shorter onesor cut the bump stop down. I've seen worse but what bothers me is the angle of the tierods. It may give you some bumb steer. If your not useing the swaybar anymore take the mount off. | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 | If your not useing the swaybar anymore take the mount off. Truckman, you must have looked at old pics when I was addressing the bump stops. New pics show the shorter bump stops & sway bar installed.
Robert C. If it's true what they say, "You learn from your mistakes," I'm a Genius in the making. 1950 3600 | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,026 | The bottom A-arm looks pretty level, that's good, but the steering tie rod is tilted up towards the wheel, this may leave you with some bump-steer. Again, try it out first, then look for a solution if it isn't working right. You might be able to flip the tie-rod end at the steering arm, letting it ride under the arm and thus leveling it out, or heat and bend the steering arm down. I looked at flipping the tie rod but the hole in the spindle is tapered to match the bolt on the tie rod. I dont know if drilling it out will cause problems or not.
Robert C. If it's true what they say, "You learn from your mistakes," I'm a Genius in the making. 1950 3600 | | |
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