The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Distributor voltage?

I'm having trouble getting my 62 235 running. I recall that it ran for a while after I installed a new dizzy and coil. The coil states that an external resistor must be used. Is this different from the old coil I removed. If so, what size resistor should I use? If I ran it without a resisitor that was required, did I damage the new coil?

Lastly, what kind of voltages should I be measuring at the connections on the starter, with the key in the run position? It's turning over, but maybe I lost the power to the coil on the "solenoid" unit attached to the starter.

If your new coil requires a ballast resistor, you should install one. The reason for this is to prevent the points from burning up from the 12 volts (measured at the + terminal on the coil). The resistor will keep it down to about 9 volts. Sometimes it is easier to just install a coil that has the resistor built-in. If your coil needs one, just go down to the local auto parts store (not a "chain" store, they may not know what you need) and pick one up.
As for the starting trouble, make sure your battery is fully charged, all connections are clean and tight and most of all; check your grounds! This is the most overlooked item when there is a starting/cranking problem.
Also, if your positive cable gets warm or even hot after just a few seconds of cranking; you may have a bad starter. Brushes and bushings are cheap and you can install them youself without much trouble. The solenoid is really easier to just buy new (if the brushes are good and the bushings are tight and the starter checks out otherwise), they are fairly inexpensive also.

gtex,

My bet is that the points would burn out before the coil if you do not have a ballast resistor in you 12v system.

Tim

The resistor is just to keep the points form burning out and if your coil says use an external resistor you need to do just that or you will get a lot of experience on changing points. Check the starter draw after making sure that all connections are good and clean. A dragging starter will sap all the voltage away from the ignition system and make an engine hard to start. An other way is to hook up a separete battery (fully charged)to your coil ro rather through the resistor and see if the car starts easier. If so the starter is more than likely drawing too much and needs rebuilding or rebrushed.

I just installed a Pertronix unit in my 261 to replace the points and condensor. The instructions said to keep the ballast resistor. The Pertronix picks the full 12 volts off the ignition switch side of the resistor so as far as I can see the only purpose for the ballast resistor now is to limit the current going through the coil.

Eric,

Call Pertronix and check about the ballast resistor (I've read the same instructions). I was told by Pertronix to remove the ballast resistor when I installed their unit 3-4 years ago ('60 261 12 v conversion with 12v coil in a '54 PU). Starts and runs like a charm.

Regarding Pertronix, I recently installed a 6v Pertronix kit in my 6v '54 235 and it starts instantly (never did that before). I used a 12v coil that Pertronix sells and recommends for the 6v kit.

Tim

Thanks for all the info. We did observe a spark, although it may be weak. Now, I have to find TDC again, we tinkered around with the dizzy location with little or no improvement.

It's really frustrating. This thing would start and purr like a kitten when I got it. But it had no brakes and the shocks were shot. So road travel was not happening. I finally get the brakes rebuilt and installed new shocks..No go..

I'll try a 2 battery approach this weekend. Judging by the responses here, the stock coil does not use a resistor and get's a full 12v.