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#37936 02/05/2003 11:02 PM
Joined: Jun 2002
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I've decided to do the whole engine rebuild on my '54 3600, and I have a question on rebuild kits. Thanks to the many previous discussions I've read here, I found the best price at Northern Auto Parts for the short block kit, but their kit say it's for 56-62. My question is are there any parts that won't interchange? (By the way when I called them the sales guy didn't know) Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks
Kevin Reilley

#37937 02/05/2003 11:40 PM
Joined: Nov 2000
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'Bolter
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Someone more knowledgeable will probably respond...but I think the main bearings will be different on your 54. They are dowel pinned? I'm not sure what that really means. I went through a 56 once (twice, really) and have a 58 on my engine stand now. The rods and mains have little notches and a little tang or tab on the bearing to locate it. No shims required. A reputable, knowledgeable parts company with real experience with the old stuff is worth paying more...sometimes. Good Luck.


Professional Novice
#37938 02/06/2003 12:03 AM
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'53-55 1st used different water pump, main bearings, shim stock, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, lifters, possibly pushrods, oil pump, oil pan & oil pickup. All this stuff was changed in '55-'56. There are also some oiling passage differances too, but it doesn't directly concern the rebuild kit.

The '53-'55 main brngs are the hardest part to find of all of it.

Crankshaft, rods, pistons, rings, upper valvetrain, mech cam, cam gearset, etc will interchange between '54-'62. Check the diameter of your #1 cam bearing, as the later '54-62 235 engines should use the 2.150" dia set of cam bearings. The 53-previous engines used a camshaft with smaller journals. And you can't use a hydraulic cam unless your engine was drilled for it, and not all '54 235s were.


Preaching the Hot Rod Gospel according to the 4-stroke apostles:

Suck, Squish, Fire and Fumes
#37939 02/06/2003 12:23 AM
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Thanks guys, I'll have to have ask Northern auto if they can substitute the bearings, lifters, and pump, the other parts I can get elsewhere. I'm just trying to keep the cost down best I can.

#37940 02/06/2003 2:52 AM
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I would advise you to get your parts from someone that knows what they are talking about. Just because you get the lowest price doesn't mean that the parts will be right or that they will be the best quality. Take your list from Northern and go to your local mom & pop parts store and see if they will work with you. I have checked price of my local parts store against jegs and summitt, usually they are so close that by the time you add shipping and handling versus sales tax there is less than 5% difference. and if somethings wrong, the local parts store pays the shipping, not you. They also usually have tools to loan you, such as ring compressors and the like.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
#37941 02/07/2003 10:43 PM
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Mainer,

The '53 -'54 block is cast differently where the water pump mounts; the '55-'62 block has a big round hole cast for the water pump impeller, right above the timing case, and the water pump shaft is several inches longer than the '54 engine.
Use of a '55 & later engine in a '54 & earlier truck requires either moving the radiator forward (requires some cutting of the radiator cradle) or use of a special "short-shaft" water pump, available from the specialty guys.

Have you priced a rebuild kit from Kanter Auto Supply in Boonton, NJ ?

The '54-'55 first series engine is somewhat rarer
than the later 235's; don't let somebody screw-up your block because they're not familiar with it.


Frank McMullen
1941 Chevy dump truck
1949 GMC 100 pick-up
1954 Chevy 3600 pick-up
1955.1 4400 dump truck
1941 De Soto & other MoPars
1928 Model A F**D Special Coupe
#37942 02/07/2003 11:22 PM
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Frank- AMEN! eek frown :p


Preaching the Hot Rod Gospel according to the 4-stroke apostles:

Suck, Squish, Fire and Fumes

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