The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop rusty fender mount Fix

My fender mounts on the cab are pretty rusty and was just wondering how to fix them. im almost a hundred percent shure i will have to cut them out and replace. but before i start cutting i was just wondering if any of you ran into this and how you fixed it.also if thier is anyone who makes them.
Photos
http://community.webshots.com/album/562576337phqmYA

Oh...........
That is just nasty.
And i thought i had problems.
Hope you can find the correct patch panels.

Unfortunately most of us have run into it. Most of the vendors that are mentioned here sell the parts, prices vary along with the shipping so it pays to shop around a bit. Here is what I did so you can see how I started with the floors and worked my way out.
I would be happy to share the tricks with you in detail once you get started drop me a personal message.

http://community.webshots.com/user/RugerWSM?vhost=community

Yah i was afraid of that.So it looks likeyou just cut the whole thing out and rebuilt one.How hard was that and what is this part of the truck called i coulndt find it anywhere on lmc or jim carters.

OH wait i just found it spoke to soon.do you know if i bought it off LMC Does that part just bolt up or would i need to weld it?

Patch panels are a cut and weld operation.
Good luck..............

Just a word of caution.....try to maintain at least a couple of the original mount holes to use with whatever you decide on for a patch panel. Cut away the real rusty stuff, form and weld your repair panel in using the existing stock holes to INDEX EXACTLY where your fender was originally located. This will help prevent a major misalignment problem down the road. Once you get your replacement positioned correctly, you can remove the old rusty stuff.

Another suggestion....I found that drilling additional holes between the stock original fender mounting holes and likewise on each fender gave me additional contact points to pull my fenders/welting very close to the body. Being that these are attached with a bolt, washers and nut it will look like a factory fix and you'll be a lot happier during the assembly process. Also make sure that the mating surfaces are returned to their original positions so that the fenders will draw down nice and tight to the cowl. Doing this BEFORE painting will pay off in the end.

Dave

OK im starting to understand what i need. i saw on Jim Carters that they have two different kinds one for 32$ thats 19" high and another one thats 92$ thats 35" high but with vents.would the 19" work for me.and does anyone know if having the vents is the only difference between them.

Before welding in new metal patches, I suggest stripping (preferably sandblasting) the tin down to white metal, so you get a better idea of the extent of the cancer.

The difference between the 19" and the 35" is the height measured from the bottom of the patch panel. Measure how far up your damage goes and that should tell you which you need, but if it were me, I'd just spring for the 35" and get it over with. It's a lot easier to cut off excess than to come up short, and as has been suggested... blast or do what you have to to get a realistic idea of what you're dealing with.