The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Headers and Duals

I've searched the Archives and past discussions have been helpful, but didn't answer all the questions I have. I've got a 53 Chevy 1/2 ton with 216 engine. It runs strong although burns a little oil and leaks some too, but don't plan to replace it in the near future. I just finished rebuilding the rest of the truck. When the engine needs serious work, I plan to find a 235 to replace it. I want to get Fenton headers (most likely repro) and Smithys now to use with the 216. If and when it dies, can the headers and exhaust be used on the 235? Also, I live in a fairly large city, but we don't have a custom exhaust place. Has anyone purchased exhaust pipes etc to use with Fentons from a vendor?

There is only one type of fenton available, so don't worry about it. It will fit the 235. For the exhaust, the fentons are designed so that the one side can reuse the stock exhaust system (center dump type, not rear dump) the other side would need to be slightly customized. If you can't find a shop to help you, do you have a MIG welder? if so you could piece together your own system. JC Whitney has different types of elbows, etc.. available. I have never seen pre-made systems available, I would think it wouldn't be cost effective due to low volume and the many variations needed to cover all situations.

Jim Carter has "Dual Exhaust System Pipes" for $197.75 - see http://www.oldchevytrucks.com - online store - High Performance Parts - Exhaust.

Description:
" Two custom formed exhaust and tail pipes to attach to 6 cylinder Fenton Headers HP102. Properly passes under your 1/2 ton short bed truck. You provide your choice of mufflers. Note: Slight pipe bending required if you have the 1947-55 Suburban, Panel, or 1/2 ton pickup with under bed gas tank. Attaches to 1947-48 if you use a 1949-62 exhaust manifold. "

I have used the Jim Carter dual exhaust on a 261 and Fenton headers in a '54 1/2 ton. It fits very nicely with 3-speed transmission. The stock muffler fits fine (on both pipes) and sounds nice (the stock muffler is a baffled straight-through design).

The pipes would have to be bent to work with a stock 4-speed transmission and probably for a stock Hydramatic transmission.

Tim

Thanks for the info. I'll call Carter. Can someone tell me about the heat for the intake manifold. I don't think in Florida I'll need to heat the intake, but isn't there an opening at the base of the intake manifold that mates with the heat riser housing on the stock exhaust manifold? Is there an adapter plate or something when you use headers?

I just spent the last Sat morning "fitting" those cast iron Fentons to fit with an Offy intake (or the other way around). I have coated the exhaust side with high heat paint (eastwood for now) and I have wondered about those pipes from Jim Carter's. Do they stay on one side with both mufflers side-by-side all the way to the back bumper?
Cheers

Terry,

One side runs the path of the stock exhaust system. The other side is spaced the same distance from the drive shaft - this makes is look symmetrical.

As I recall, the passenger-side pipe crosses-over under the drive shaft just behind the rear of the transmission (this had to be "fitted" to work with a 4-speed but should clear easily with a stock 3-speed).

You might want to install a heat shield on both sides (the same shield as used on stock systems).

Good luck,
Tim

Thanks Tim, I do have a 235 with the std 3 speed and enclosed drive. I have 2 more questions (for now). Are those pipes aluminized? and what type of rig is used to hang the passenger side muffler?
Thanks again for all your invaluable help.
Cheers

Texaholic, I have the headers currently plugged (those 3/8 npt ports that come out the side)and, at least initially, will not use manifold heat. I am using B model carbs with the rear having a manual choke (none on the front carb). If I was using the autochoke option for each, the tubing would connect to those cast in ports on the Fentons. Intuitively this all looks good, but it aint running yet neither. Stay tuned.
Good luck.

OK, I'm glad my original post is generating some interesting discussion, but somewhere along the line, my second question got lost.
It's this:
I have never had the exhaust and intake manifolds off, but thought the intake is open on the bottom and the stock exhaust manifold is open on the top, and the two manifolds mate together. The heat riser butterfly in the exhaust manifold opens and closes according to the temp controlled by the spring on the side. When it's cold, the butterfly directs heat from the exhaust up and around the interior of the manifold. Sooooooo. If you put on Fenton's doesn't that leave an opening in the "floor" of the stock intake manifold? And if it does, is that supposed to be blocked off? Thanks

Texaholic,
The bottom of the intake manifold is not open to the exhaust manifold. If you think about it , that would cause a big problem with the raw fuel going into the exhaust manifold.They are both closed and the heat just transfers through the manifolds.

Tex, To answer your question, you could make a flat steel plate, like 1/4" thick, to bolt onto the bottom of the stock intake manifold heat transfer chamber. Then drill and tap two holes in the plate, to allow you to hook up two copper tubes to the two pipe plugs on the Fenton headers. This will allow for heat transfer.

If you have questions about this, email me your address, and I'll send you a diagram from the May/June 2001 issue of the Inliner's 12 Port News.

Ok, thanks for the new info. I was thrown off by the cutaway view in the shop manual that shows the heat being sent up into and around the intake manifold. Now that I look at it again, there may be an interior chamber in the intake manifold that the fuel/air passes thru and a separate outside chamber surrounding it that the rising exhaust comes up into to warm the manifold. BTW, Tommy, I have a NOS exhaust manifold, and it is open at the top where it meets the bottom of the exhaust manifold.
Looking around the Internet, I see Smithys has glasspack and "metal pack" mufflers. I'm not familar with the last kind. When I was a kid, we only had glasspacks: Smithys or Cherry Bombs and I've only heard them on flathead F***s. Anybody out there have experience with the various lengths of either one?
Mick Iniss, I think you're a Smithy's fan.

Unfortunately, the Jim Carter dual exhaust set is not aluminized steel. I used an exhaust pipe hanger attached above.

Here are the options I have seen for heating the intake manifold:

1. Do nothing and put up with rough idling when cold, and hesitation when accelerating.

2. Make a set-up as described by Kinky6 (be sure to use the stock carburetor insulator)

3. Here is an old listing from eBay. This guy makes an aluminum plate similar to the one described by Kinky6 (for around $60, delivered). If you do not know how to contact someone on eBay, give me your e-mail address and I will ask him to contact you.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597630316&

4. Run water from the water pump outlet through a set-up similar to the one described by Kinky6 and return to the inlet on the water pump (splice off the heater-hose fittings on the water pump). The water pump on my 261 has outlets and inlets for two heaters (I guess) and these could be used (I will know this spring).

5. Tom Langdon sells a water-heated plate that fits on a standard intake, without interference with the Fenton headers. I think it costs $30 plus shipping.
http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/

Last summer, I ran without any heat to the intake but this spring I will be installing Langdon's heat plate.

By the way, your last message states "BTW, Tommy, I have a NOS exhaust manifold, and it is open at the top where it meets the bottom of the exhaust manifold." Did you mean "it is open at the top where it meets the bottom of the intake manifold"? My guess is that Texaholic2000 is right about the bottom of the intake being closed (that would be important, I think).

Good luck,
Tim

Yup, I misspoke myself. I meant that "it is open at the top where it meets the bottom of the intake manifold"? Must be getting tired, and you all must be getting tired of this thread. Thanks for catching that and all the other info from everyone.