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You may have read about the 50 Chevy me and my daughter bought just around the corner.The 216 engine is stuck fast from sitting for 4 years.It was supposedly rebuilt at one time.I squirted two cans of PB Blaster into the spark plug holes, after 2 days the stuff was still in the cylinders,didn't leak past the rings. Towed the truck ,popped the clutch,left skid marks all over the place.So I jacked up the truck,pulled the inspection pan,got a 3 foot tire iron on the flywheel teeth levered against the clutch housing, no go.Even tried a jack on the bar, no go.This sucker is really stuck, any ideas before I pull the head,use a little hammer action on the pistons to get them broken loose. Figure the engine might be a smoker,but at least it will run.

Tony,

When I used PB Blaster to get the wheels separated from the hubs on my '38 1-1/2 ton, it took most of a week for the stuff to start moving with daily applications of PB Blaster.

Might give it a few more days before trying anything major.

Try some Kroil:

www.kanolabs.com

Best penetrating oil I've ever used! I've unstuck a bunch of frozen engines with this stuff, and it's made right here in Nashville. Put 3 or 4 ounces in each spark plug hole, wait a few days, and drain it out of the oil pan. Repeat a couple of times, and use a pry bar on the flywheel to roll the engine over. It's supposed to creep through gaps one millionth of an inch in size!
Jerry

Ok, on Jerry's advice I ordered Kroil, but believe me,it better work,lol.I a disbeliever in penatrating oils,prefer a torch.
Ralpy, on stuck cycle engines,I never force the issue. I pull the head,rig up a puller using the head bolts to put pressure on the piston, always breaks loose.And as usual the cylinder(s) has a nasty rust ring, rebore or at least a hone job and new rings.
If I pull the truck head,I'll see the damage after unsticking the pistons.Then I'll stare at the cylinders and then the crusty old valves, and presto,spend money on repairs or another engine. How can I sleep at night knowing precious combusion gasses are escaping past the rings.
I'll try to leave the head on,that way I won't see what goes on.

Did it sit around without a hood and air filter? I still don't understand why I got so tight. Oh wait, maybe humidity? I have seen very few stuck motors unless they were in the elements. Also would removing the push rods be a good idea? Valves might be stuck too, maybe you are trying to move more than one problem?

I gotta plug Marvel Mystery Oil, has worked on stuck engines for me. Brian

Tony,it had the hood an air cleaner in place while sitting outside.For all I know the engine could be bearing or heat siezed, but the oil looks ok and there is no external evidence of overheating.And a neighbor kid told me he saw the seller towing the truck, locking up the rear tires , so he was trying to free it up.Since his dad is the owner ,the son must know it's just siezed from sitting around.
Number one and 6 are near TDC,the stuff I poured into the plug holes has leaked past the rings. the inner 4 cylinders are still holding fluid.
The down side of all this....I cleaned out all the leaves,pulled out a pile of rodent filth with my bare hands,blew compressed air in all the body cavities to clean em out.Hmmm this thing as potential, I want it,but don't need another truck right now. Now I have to buy my daughter out and at the same time ,she's trying to buy out my share.

I'm new to this site but am a regular at the Farmall forum on www.yesterdaystractors.com and they have their share of stuck engines. It seems to be a concensus that it takes penetrating oil or diesel fuel and lots and lots of patience, sometimes several weeks, to unstuck an engine.

It took me at least a couple of weeks to get the motor unstuck in a 50 GMC that sat for twenty years,it took hitting the starter and a crow bar on the flywheel to slowly nudge the motor before it broke loose and when it did I had it running in a half hour with the twenty year old gas in the tank and a big cloud of smoke for a while.

I have used Type F ATF in a couple motors that have sat for a lot more than 4 years. Let it sit for a week or two and Bingo ( With any luck .
I guess I am lucky my truck has plates on it dated 1976 and I can still turn the motor over by hand. I poured some Marvel Mystery oil in the plug holes just to be safe, I am going to see if it starts over the next couple of days here. Hopefully!!!
Speed

I went out this morning, working on freeing the valves, a few were sticky.Put a 5 foot crowbar on the flywheel teeth,the engine broke loose easily!!!! I can spin it over by hand with the fan now.
It's off to the store to buy some oil,I'll pull the distributer, prime the pump, clean the points, pour a little gas down the carb ,maybe it'll run????
Thanks for the encouragement, be back later, Tony

Please keep us posted to your progress. Way to go!

I'm a little late on this...but. Recently I've had amazing success using ammonia to dissolve corrosion. A trick that a bicycle mechanic taught me. Truly, works better than anything I've done in the past.

The engine has very little compression,like 15 psi,add a little oil to the cylinders, jumps up to a outstanding 30 psi, not enough compression for the engine to start.I did a leak down test,all the air is escaping past the rings, almost none through the valves.Hmmm, the rings are stuck, give it a few more days ,see if the rings free up, I have my doubts.But it's very clean under the valve cover anyways.

Ralphy, actually I was kinds gentle, didn't stick a prybar in the plug hole,lol.
I don't have much interest in spending any money on a 216 and the probable rust pits on cylinder walls should require reboring to make it run properly.Be $ ahead to find a running 235.
But a tow job may solve the problem,get the engine spinning fast enough to produce adequate compression for igntion.
My cell phone is ringing,seems I got to get some electrial work done instead of playing with the old truck.

Tony, I have a cure for that 216 and no compression. Some super-octane fuel will cure all the ring problems. Hopefully, there is only a gallon or two of gas in the tank.

Add an ounce of glycerol trinitrate to the gas, but do it carefully. Pull the truck, using a long chain, and have your neighbor driving. Tell him to let the clutch out in high gear at 30 and see if the engine starts. Be warned, though, the rings will either seat or the engine will fly to pieces! Either way, that 216 will be fixed.
[img]http://www.fradsplace.com/icons/icon18.gif[/img]

The 216 came to life!!! I put in a 12 volt battery to get the engine spinning over fast, cut the coil feed directly to the 12 volts so I won't blow up the 6 volt stuff.Cranked it over,one cylinder caught,putt putt,then 2 cylinders, then the rest caught up. Big smoke screen of course, reved the snot out the engine when it warmed up,the smoke died down to a dull roar, runs on 6 cylinders,not too bad.
The compression is on the low side, but at least it starts and moves so I don't have to drag a dead horse around.
The water pump bearing is shot,the carb has an internal leak,got a waterpump and an assortment of less leaky B carbs in stock,so..........

"I love it when a plan comes together!"

Good show! Now, get out the nitrous bottle!
Jerry

I got home from work and I heard the sound of a "New" old motor with a loud water pump. Sure enough he has it running. It sure was exciting!! one picture

One smiling grease monkey!!!!

That's FANTASTIC!

Glad to hear the good news. Hope Tony (and Juniorette) don't have black eyes or broken bones fighting over possession of the new family toy.

Regards,
Wannabe

That's good news and a good looking truck. Too bad I can't say the same for the grease monkey! [img]http://www.fradsplace.com/icons/icon21.gif[/img]

I'm glad to hear Tony didn't have to use my cure to get the 216 running!