The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop 1956 Chevy Cab on a 1978 Chevy K10 chassis

Hello fellow "Bolters"

Last fall I bought a 1956 Chevy 6400 truck. The engine was totally shot, cracked head and I didn't even look at the brakes, then I thought about the cost of tires.. So what I did was take the cab off the 2 and half ton chassis and throw away the chassis. Then I bought a 1978 Chevy K10 4X4,, the body was so rusty that it almost fell off, I used a milwauke sawzall to cut up the cab and box, then I threw that sheetmetal away. The only thing I found wrong with the chassis is there were about six bolts missing on the transfer case.. It's got a 350 with a 4 speed manual transmission and a gear driven transfer case. I jacked up the transfer case just a bit to make the bolt holes line up and installed the missing bolts. Now the front drive shaft doesn't rub on the cross over pipe of the exhaust.. That is why the truck was taken to the salvage yard, the owner didn't want to mess with it anymore, it was running good when he took it there.. I checked the compression on the engine and it's all good.. This spring I'm going to set the 1956 Chevy cab on the 1978 Chevy K10 frame. I don't care how much butchering I need to do to the cab to make it work. I have access to a welder, a cutting torch, a saw zall. I can get sheet metal for free and patch it back up if need be.. I've got the title for the 56 Chevy, so once I get it driveable, I'll register it.. Has anybody here tried to do what I'm planning on doing ??? I don't have a lot of money, child support and my expenses come before this project, but I am a plumber and have done welding and mechanics for 30 years now.. I feel confident that I'm going to "get er dunn"... But any ideas I can get from you bolters out there, I'm all ears... Thank You in Advance !

Hey 56 Chevy, my brother and his son are in the process of putting a 57 GMC shortbox 1/2 ton on a shortened 70's suburban frame. It has gone well so far. One thing they have to do is find a narrower rearend for it so the wide tires won't rub on the fenders. Your cab should be the same as thiers but your front clip is probably bigger ( wider and longer perhaps). If your handy with the welder and can fabricate stuff it shouldn't be too hard at all. Good Luck!

I haven't done it, but I have often dreamed of using the cab and front sheetmetal from a 1.5 to 2 ton truck on a 4wd project. With the larger fenders and wheel openings, it should work great with larger tires. I would put a flatbed on it with removable high-seats so I could use it to spotlight rabbits, coyotes, ect. It would also make a fun river toy.

When you do this, take pictures and keep us informed on the progress.

Hi 53GMCPhil !
This project hasn't cost much so far. I paid 200 for the 2.5 ton 56 Chevy and 350 dollars for the 1978 Chevy four wheeler.
I saved the two frame rails of the 2.5 ton chassis, I cleaned all the rivits off with a grinder. I will be using these beams to support the floor in my living room. When the dog runs across the floor it feels like an earth quake. Steel beams are very expensive.

You may view many photo's showing the progress I have made so far
by clicking on my photobucket address, here it is
http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g178/reroy55/

Thank You for the message and the encouragement !

LeRoy Wolff

Hi Chevy Nut !
I won't need to bother with the rear axel on my project. I'll probably be putting a flat bed on the back. I really haven't given that part much thought, but it will be the easiest way to go, and easy is cheaper ! Before I cut up the 1978 Chevy body I took a take measure and measured from the center of the front wheel to the fire wall, also from the center of the front wheel to the back of the cab, they are very very close in dimensions ! I took the saddle tanks off the 1978 Chevy and threw them away, they will be in my way when I set the 56 Chevy cab on.. I also threw away the gas tank from the 56 Chevy cab.. I do not like the tank in the cab. I haven't thought about a fuel tank yet.. Maybe I should get an aluminum beer keg and use that for a fuel tank?? I will not be going on long trips with this truck, so no sense in having a large tank.
Thank You for the Response and the encourgement !!
LeRoy Wolff, Hunter, North Dakota

Hi Phil !
If you look at the 1978 chevy four wheeler chassis, you will see a huge Edlebrock carb. When I bought the truck, the guy told me that the carb and intake are not yours, that belongs to someone else. I told him I have no problem with that.. I do not want a big carb.. I'm going with a plain old two barrel cast iron intake and I'm looking for a Rochester 2G carb. I want a carb that is simple to rebuild and maintain. I do not need a lot of power! I'm going to be driving slow with this old truck,, just putt putt along..

Hi Chevy Nut !
My next step in the project will be early this Spring. I need to build an overhead crane to lift the 56 Chevy cab on to the 78 Chevy fourwheeler chassis. I'm going to build the crane out of wood. The cab is very light. When I lifted the 56 chevy cab off it's frame another guy and me just lifted it off by hand. I need an overhead crane to hold it steady while I fab up cab supports. I'll check on prices of 4X4 wood. If I think the cost is too much, I'll make my own wood beams using 2X4's and bolt them together with 3/8ths threaded rod and nuts and washers. The crane will need to be fairly high.. I'm guessing 13 to 15 feet to allow elevation for chassis plus cab plus room for a come-a-long.. I'm going to drill 4 half inch holes in the drive way with a hammer drill, then put in 3/8ths drop in anchors. Into the anchors I'll screw in eye bolts. I've got metal cable here on spools. I'll put guy wires on the over head crane to give it stability. I'll also put turn buckles on the guy wires to give them the proper tension. Once I have the cab mounted, I'll simply cut up the wood and burn it in my shop wood stove next winter.. The only evidence of a crane will be the 4 holes in the driveway with drop in anchors.. those can be patched with a spoon full of concrete patch..

You may do a search on this site for cab lifting. Some have had success using an engine hoist for lifting the cabs off of their trucks.

Here is a quote from a past thread:

Thanks Phil for the info.. I don't have an engine hoist right now but, the tilt/prop idea will help me

Make sure you have a title or a good bill of sale from the 4x4,some states will not title a conversion without proof of where the parts came from.
------------
Floyd

Point Well Taken tntrucknut !
Before my project will be allowed to get a licence tag I will need to call the Highway Patrol and they will send out a trooper to inspect the vehicle. I had to do this with my 1931 Ford Model AA truck I used to have. The trooper and I had a good time cruising around in that old truck ! I made him look at the turn signals and brake lights, he didn't even want to look, but I was proud that I got the project done, he was having too much fun to do his job properly. According to North Dakota law, the vehicle must be safe to be operated on the roads.

North Dakota Century Code
Section 39-04-10.4 Antique Motor Vehicles-License and fee-Use
1. Any motor vehicle which is at least forty years old may be permanently licensed by the department upon payment of a registration fee of ten dollars. The department shall design and issue a distinctive number plate for this purpose. In lieu of the distinctive number plate, the owner of the vehicle may, at the discretion of the director, display on the motor vehicle a number plate from the year in which the motor vehicle was manufactured./////blah blah blah//// Motor vehicles registered under the provisions of this section may not be used in the routine functions of a buisness or farming operation.

I will not be able to use this truck as a daily driver. I live in a small town of 200 people, way out in the middle of nowhere North Dakota. The truck will probably not be driven more than what the special insurance policy allows.