The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Lifter adjustment question

Ok, I've always adjusted the hydrolic lifters on chev small block's when running.I have the clip's to keep the oil from getting all over,and a pair of cut out valve covers.Well recenly I've been working at a different shop and and they insist that doing a running adjustment will cause big problem's,wich I've never had any problems doing it this way.Of course they aren't telling me how they do it either.I've been doing it my way 30 years.Any suggestions?Tom

I guess it boils down to if he signs the checks, you got to do it his way. I have done it both ways without any problems.

Tom,

I agree with your method, especially since you have the cut out valve covers. Many folks swear the static method is more accurate. Many folks who swear the static method is more accurate don't understand how to set them warm and running.

The bottom line for you I think is...when in Rome, do as the Romans do!

Either that, or attempt, gracefully, to educate them on the finer points of a running adjustment.

Stuart

"When in Rome, shoot Roman candles!" Anybody remember who said that?

I firmly believe it's impossible to do a running adjustment accurately, but I've been chastized by people half my age around here for suggesting such heresy! Do it however the boss tells you to, or find another job.
Jerry

Lou Marx....he said it when I was 9 years old.

Stuart

Iv,e done them both ways & like the static method best. Especially if you have the engine out or have done some engine work on it. You adjust the valves on the stand, put the covers on & you are through with it.

Ok then, it's a 50/50 opinion or so.So what's the procedere for a static setting?Other than I know the valves must be closed, piston tdc on comp.I'm willing to learn different way's to do things.just was never taught static setting years back.
Thank's tom

Ok,Are you ready? With the engine on # 1 TDC fire position, you can adjust # 1 Intake and exhaust,#2 Intake,#3 Exhaust,# 4 Intake and # 5 Exhaust.Adjust the rockers down as you turn the push rod with your other hand.When you start to feel drag (zero lash)continue to tighten one full turn to center the lifter plunger.Rotate the engine one full turn and you should be at #6 TDC fire position.You can now adjust #2 Exaust,#3 Intake,#4 Exhaust,#5 Intake and # 6 Intake and Exhaust.Put your covers on and start her up.
*Just another thought.If you adjust your valves before you put the intake on,you can see the lifters that are down(low in the bore).Hope this helps.
Intake, compression, power, exhaust = suck, squeeze, bang, blow

LOL. . .
Intake, compression, power, exhaust = suck, squeeze, bang, blow

gtow69,

Thanks for the info. Does this procedure assume the lifters have been soaked in a coffee can full of oil and are full? What keeps the lifter "hard" unless it is full of oil.

I don't know the answers to these questions...I have always put my lifters in a bath of oil for several days as I did other chores. You can watch the bubbles sneak out until they are full.

I recently read somewhere that this procedure wasn't absolutely necessary, but on a new assembly, and using the static method, how do you make sure the lifters are full..or does it matter?

Stuart

I've done them both ways many times myself. I learned the running method over thirty years ago when I worked as a mechanics helper for an older mechanic with nearly forty years experience. It was the only way he knew, and he would even set mechanical lifters with the engine running. He could tell by the sound of the engine and the drag on the feeler gauge when he had it right. I learned the static method a few years later. I would not say one way is better than the other, only that my preference is usually static on new cam/lifter installs but on used parts I will still sometimes set them running, as there have been a couple of times that I set used lifters before I put the motor in only to have to re-adjust them later to quiet them down. New cam and lifters is of course the best way to go, but I've done many poor-man rebuilds for people that could not afford more than rings and gaskets.

I don't know that it's necessary to prime new lifters before setting them static, but I usually do. You can feel the drag on the push rod when you get to zero lash even with a dry lifter, but it's much easier with a fully primed lifter. I usually prime mine with a good oil squirt can through the hole in the side of the lifter. I just hold the squirt can tight against the lifter and pump oil in until it starts coming out the top of the lifter.

This is probably one of those things where everyone has there own preference. Each to his own.

Running method for hydrolic is idiot proof.

idle engine
tighten rocker adjustment slowly till it starts to miss
loosen adjustment slowly counting turns till it starts to rattle
divide the number of turns out in half
tighten adjustment down the number of turns your calculation determined.
Done. next.

Allright, thanks guy's,great info and I learned a bit more!I alway's put the lifters in a tub of oil before installing them and pump them up with a pushrod.now I can try to do it staticly and see how it turn's out.Thank's again! Tom

Hey Stuart (atomarc), No need to soak your lifters in oil. Take your CLEAN oil squirt can and fill it with CLEAN oil. Pump the oil into the small hole on the side of the lifter. If you want to get real fancy, put a short piece of rubber hose on the squirt can nozzle for a good (high pressure) seal.You can watch the air purge out as you pump the oil in.

Pre-oiling lifters is OK, but not really necessary. As soon as oil pressure gets to the lifters down that big oil gallery, the lifters will fill in a matter of a minute or two. Just assemble the cam/lifter combination with plenty of extreme pressure lube like Melling engine assembly lube, or Lubriplate white lithium grease on the cam lobes and lifter bottoms. If the cam & lifters are new, run the engine at a fast idle, maybe 1,500-2,000 RPM for about 20 minutes on the initial startup to let the cam and lifters establish a wear pattern. After that, NEVER put a lifter against any lobe other than the one it was run-in on. They need to stay matched for the life of the cam.
Jerry