Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,009 Posts1,055,297 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 66 | Well I'm finally getting started on my 53 Chevy 3100....FINALLY!!! A friend of mine just got a hold of me and let me know they found a rolling frame ready to go. He also said it fits my measurements but I wanted to check in with you all here and see if there are any special considerations I should make. The frame he found is that of a 1977 Chevy shortbed pickup...
Do you guys think that would work?
I looked around but couldn't find any info on this particular issue. Thanks in advance for any help you all can give. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 619 "MONGO" | | "MONGO" Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 619 | BigSix302's 52 Parts chaser sits on a 78 frame: Old Blue most people think it's on a 4X4 because of the stance he went with but I think you could get it lower if you'd like. I'm sure he'll chime in with details on the build but I know the wheelbase is a little long for the old trucks, he repositioned the rear fenders further back to compensate for this. Also the front is a little wide for the old trucks you can see the way the front wheels sit in one of those pics. One option might be to just use the front cross member out of the 77 on your old truck frame. That's the way my father in laws 54 is setup, although I can't remember what year cross member his has but it's close. You can grind down and punch out the rivets that hold the cross member in the 70's frame then slide it right off. Then slide it on the 53 frame, add some spacers on either side (I think it was about an inch) and bolt or weld it to the old truck frame. That's the jest of it there's more too it, I'll search for a full write up of that swap and repost or if someone else has it handy feel free to jump in. The trick is I can't remember how far back in the 70's those swaps worked, I've always thought of it as late 70's early 80's but don't know how late. MONGO | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 66 | Thanks. I appreciate it. I'm hoping its doable as it would save me a lot of time and money. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Thanks. I appreciate it. I'm hoping its doable as it would save me a lot of time and money. While it is probably doable, I bet it still cost money and takes more time then finding an original frame :confused: What's the attraction or reason for swapping to a much newer frame? Grigg | | | | | Joined: Sep 2005 Posts: 99 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2005 Posts: 99 | I know that a friend of mine years ago pulled the front cross member out of a '65 chev P/U and it bolted up to the frame in his '53 withexactly 1/4 inch spacer on each side. The wheelbase looked bang on and the ride hieght took no adjusting at all either. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 66 |
Joe - (Buckeye Bowtie) "Remember it takes about 2850 bolts to built a Chevy Truck and only 1 NUT to scatter them all over the highway"
1950 3100 1971 C-10 1939 Buick Century
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2003 Posts: 66 | Here is one more link - similar to the other but, both may have info that the other does not. http://50chevy.freeservers.com/Bolt_on_Independent_2.html
Joe - (Buckeye Bowtie) "Remember it takes about 2850 bolts to built a Chevy Truck and only 1 NUT to scatter them all over the highway"
1950 3100 1971 C-10 1939 Buick Century
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 66 | Thanks for the info! The reason I'm trying to pull this off is simple. My goals for this truck are to make a driver which includes dropping in a small block, appropriate tranny, driveshaft, rear end ect...
This 77 frame can be had for next to nothing. The rear end looks to line up well and I get almost everything I need in a tidy package. It would save me a lot of money in parts if can work. My fabricator seems confident that he wouldn't have a problem making the changes needed to mount my truck on it. I was just hoping to find some more info to make me feel more at ease with the idea. | | | | | | Houston54 Unregistered | | Houston54 Unregistered | In my opinion the 73-up frame is about the worst option for an AD series truck. It sits too high, the track is too wide to enable the use of lowering spindles without the use of SEVERE backspaced rims which create other clearance problems. Somehave done it but it does not fit that body style very well.
If you want to have something when you are done that will have enough resale value to it for you to recoup most of your expense I would suggest an IFS kit, a first gen camaro/nove subframe or an S10 but all have their advantages and disadvantages. Each though is a better option than your current option. But that is just my opinion. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Houston54, that's pretty much my opinion too, although I would stick with the original frame and a leaf sprung front axle, mustang as a second choice, S10 frame a very distant third, and 73-up is not even in the lineup.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 888 | I agree with H54 and Grigg also, however, if you decide to go that route there is/was a bolter,Sublime, that did one when I first joined the Bolt. He was very competent, skilled and kept a great photo build. I was always waiting for his next post just to follow. I don't think his photo account is still open but his post are. This may/may not help in your decision. Have fun and good luck. Dan | | | | | | Houston54 Unregistered | | Houston54 Unregistered | That does not look that awful even though it is a ford. There are pics on the following link that show how the 73-up suspension fits on an AD truck (not to knock someone elses hard work) even with some width removed from the cross member. http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/1963-1987%20IFS%20UPGRADE.htm | | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 72 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 72 | That one on eBay does look funky at the front wheels. Seems like they are too far back in the fender opening. It also says Chevrolet on the tail gate, if you can call it that.
52 GMC Suburban...52 Chevy 3/4 ton...49 CHevy 1/2 ton Rod...49 GMC 1/2 ton retro rod project
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 66 | Just to let you all know, with your advice along with that of BigSix, I've decided that this may not be the best way to go even if it is a great deal. I'm back to my original plan of using the original frame which is in very good shape, and adding the IFS and rear end I want and maybe boxing in the frame. The best part is that I'm going to do this work myself. My fabricator will be kept busy saving my cab  Now I just have to find the IFS kit that fits my needs and budget. Thanks to all of you for your help. I've checked the usual (TCI, RB's ect...) but if anyone had any suggestions here, I would much appreciate it. I've seen kits as low as $1200 so I want to research this a bit more. The frame is coming home probably next week. I needed feedback from those that have the specific experience here that my fabricator hasn't had and you all took care of me. thanks thanks thanks...message recieved  I'll keep you posted. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 72 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2004 Posts: 72 | Not that I have hands on experience with this, but I have seen quite a few of the MustangII kits. Or as some call them Pinto IFS kits. You can keep costs down by using the entire cross member from the donor. You will have to do some carefull cut and paste so to speak. I think Mongo here has this type of IFS on a 53 AD truck he owns. Seems to work very well. If you do not use the stock cross member, you buy one and mount all the stock car type componenets onto your truck. I think they are plenty sturdy for a street truck and show truck. Maybe Mongo can add some pics here or directly to you for more clarification.
Last edited by BigSix302; 02/17/2008 5:21 PM.
52 GMC Suburban...52 Chevy 3/4 ton...49 CHevy 1/2 ton Rod...49 GMC 1/2 ton retro rod project
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 66 | I've been looking at several IFS kits out there and just trying to decide on which to get. They are pretty reasonably priced considering all you get. I plan on mounting a small block and some of these kits appear to come with everything I need so hopefully it works out... | | |
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