The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
5 members (Youngin' Tut 59, GusG, JoergK., Gdads51, Lightholder's Dad), 105 guests, and 1 robot.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,196
Posts1,057,386
Members48,469
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7
M
Member
Member
M Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7
Finally! After three months of sitting in my garage, and after
getting the brake work done, I take my recently acquired truck for a
drive, only to discover a very pronounced shake in the drive train.
I'm pretty sure it's not engine related as the engine runs well at
idle, and at higher rpms while in neutral. The shaking starts
apparently in fourth gear and I'm afraid of going any faster. From
experimenting it does not seem to 'shake' while there is torque on
the system (accelerating/climbing hills/etc) only when I let up on
the accelerator does it become noticable, and more pronounced the
faster I am going. Top speed tried: 45MPH. I was unable to determine
the location of the shake (and it is very audible as well) When I pop
it in neutral the shake continues. Once below 30 MPH, the shake seems
to go away.

Any ideas?

Mike
'51 3100

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,096
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,096
Wow , the potential list of options here seems nearly endless .
I'll give you a couple and let the others climb all over them .

tyre delaminating

tyre balance weight come off

Wheel incorrectly fitted after brake job

flat spot on the tyres after sitting 3 mths

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 398
W
Member
Member
W Offline
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 398
Mike, how about the differential in your truck, is it in good condition? The conditions you are describing ring a bell to me, especially the vibrations not occuring under load, just cruise and coast. Sometimes, uneven wear patterns on the ring and pinion gears in the differential can cause the condition you described. I seem to remember reading an article in "Classic Trucks" magazine which gave a list of symptoms and causes within the differential. This list was a sidebar to an article on differential and rear suspension overhaul on a early 70's Suburban. I can't remember which issue it was in, I'll have to check my "library" and get back to you with another post a little later.

Wannabe smile

no truck right now...
one day WILL HAVE an Advance Design Chevy...


"Don't expect anything and you'll never be disappointed"
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 194
A
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
A Offline
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 194
If it is a closed driveline (torque tube) if would first check the u-joint and the oakie bushing.

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 140
G
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
G Offline
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 140
have you done any driveline work on it? (like taking the driveline out) Cause if you dont put it in the same position as it was before, it will throw the balance of the driveline off, causing it to vibrate.


Jonathan S. Keffer

Certified Yeti Trainer

Richard Roy Schlicht-
Good Grandfather, Veteran Wrench Turner...

"If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is..."

Es gibt nichts, zu befürchten, aber befürchtet sich.
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7
M
Member
Member
M Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7
The tires are brand new, less than 10 miles on them. All the brakes are brand new. New wheel bearings in the front.
Engine runs fine, load or no load. I suspect Universal Joint, but unsure of how to determine the difference between the two types of drive shafts. (Torque tube versus Open) (WEll, I am new to this.)

Mike

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,745
T
Member
Member
T Offline
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,745
Wow, two month stovebolter and I already know some asnwers.

The torque tube has a shaft within a tube, there is no moving parts visible.

An open driveshaft has the turning shaft out in the open and you can see it turn when the truck moves.

The former is actually akin to a propeller shaft and so named in the shop manual.


54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 64
R
Member
Member
R Offline
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 64
If you have a 2 piece drive shaft then it needs to be timed. I am not sure if your model has a 2 piece drive shaft.


kdot em3
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 523
J
Member
Member
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 523
Mr. Tankslap lives in my 39 but at 80-85 or so It'll tear your thumbs off the wheel!!!!

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,897
M
Member
Member
M Offline
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,897
That is why good drivers always have their thumbs up when their hands are on the wheel!!!!!


There is enough good in the worst of us and enough bad in the best of us that it does not behoove any of us to criticize the rest of us.
-
-
Be yourself. If you are ever lost, It will be much easier to find yourself if you know who you are!
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 95
C
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
C Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 95
Mikes51Chevy: You did not say if you had any trans or engine work done to your truck. You stated that you can feel and hear the noise, and at about 30mph, out of gear It's still there.

1. Check transmission for tightness to bellhousing

2. Check trans oil level, pressure plate tight?

3. Check driveline, timed and u-bolts tight.

4. Check rear end oil level. Check tires/flat spots, or blisters, missing tread.

5. Check pinion for looseness or leaking oil from rear. Possible loose rear gears or bearing noises and/or vibrations. Maybe a loose rear wheel. More likely worn axle bearing, or pinion. You said the noise is apparent when no torque is to rear, that points to rear gears (ring loose or pinion worn),
worn bearings and things moving (thrust) around.

6. An easy check is to support truck frame on jack stands, or blocks to frame. Remove rear wheel/tires and place a floor jack under rear end
differential. Also block front wheels both ways.
Start truck and check for noises, easy to locate with wheels off. Rev truck up to about 45, and let off. If you can't tell, rev to 45 then shut off. By careful listening and checking you will be able to pinpoint the trouble. Good Luck!

Think Chevy! wink eek :rolleyes: : ( :confused: :confused: :confused:


Houston? , We have a problem!
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
4
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
4 Offline
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
Quote
Originally posted by Mechainiac:
That is why good drivers always have their thumbs up when their hands are on the wheel!!!!!
The best drivers steer with their knees. You need your hands for eating hamburgers, talking on the phone, and shaving/applying makeup.


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4
5
Junior Member
Junior Member
5 Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4
I had a vibration in my 53 that started at about 45 MPH and got worse as I increased speed. The problem was the carrier bearing. Mine is a one ton long bed and has two shafts with a carrier bearing in the middle of them. I'm not sure from your post if yours is a single or double shaft but it might be worth looking into. Good luck.


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0