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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 45 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 45 | I removed the running 235 from my '54 3100 and discovered signifigant rust in the water jacket when I removed the block drain plug and temperature sensor. Does anyone know of a way to remove the rust before re-installing the engine? I'd rather not circulate the rust through the radiator if I can help it. I searched the forum but could not find an answer.
Finally '54
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 45 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 45 | Thanks. I have a high pressure washer and was planning to replace the freeze plugs anyway. Is there any additional chemical treatment possible to dissolve the rust? I can fill the block and run it for short periods without the radiator.
Finally '54
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 946 | I did the same on an old 305. Removed all freeze plugs and blasted it with a pressure washer. I also had the engine on a stand so I could rotate it upside down which really helps. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 | What I've done in the past is take it to an engine rebuilding shop and have them hot tank it (when they have the room and no rush keeps it cheap). Shouldn't be very expensive and really comes out clean.
Bruce | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,317 | Pulling the freeze plugs is good advice and while you're at it....take out the block drain cock at the driver's side rear of the engine and run a coat hanger up inside the block. This passageway is usually full of almost solid crud that even hot tanking won't break loose. Once you get this passageway open you'll be able to get more rust/crud out.
Just a suggestion.....use only distilled water and antifreeze in your engine and you'll note less buildup in your radiator. It's worth the $2.50 for 4 gallons of the distilled stuff.
Dave | | |
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