The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop cab off

OK so this will be simple for those who have jerked a cab off a 53 but I ain't getting it.The shop manual doesn't address it and haven't seen it mentioned in any discussion. I'm having second thoughts about replacing my left floor panel since there is just a small area damaged and the floor brace is ok. Mounts are loose but there is a large rivet thru the floor brace to the frame and the brace is welded to the floor. How do I deal with the rivet?
I can cut it off but when the cab goes back on I'll have to drill a hole in the floor to install a bolt or something.
What am I missing?

If I remember correctly on my 54, there is a large bolt on each side in the front part of the cab floor that holds it to the frame. Maybe someone replaced a bolt with a rivet or it's badly rusted and looks like a rivet?? The new floor panels should come with a recessed hole for each of those bolts. I hope this helps.
Samantha

Like Samantha said, There are two large bolts that go thru a big recessed washer that is welded to the floorpan as wee as a sort of shackle that holds the rear of cab to the frame on either side. I think you will get the nuts off of the big front bolts and I think I took a floor jack and lifted one side of the cab, spayed the bolts with penetrating oil and bounced it until they came loose. I do think that you have to take some of the e-brake linkage off also. steering column must be removed and the pedals. I think that is it.

I think it confirms I have something different. Maybe a mod, repair or whatever. I've got the mount bolts/washer assy out but the rivit is installed in the bottom of the channel,inboard of the mounts about +-12 inches. Goes thru the floor support and attaches to a bracket on the frame. It is rusted but looks like a big old bridge rivet(1/4-3/8). Pan head on top, swedged on underside. If its not OEM maybe I should just cut it off and forget about it. Thing is I been around this truck for a long time and its never been wrecked or cab off. Strange !!
Thanks for the help.
Bob

Can you post a pic?

Sounds like you will have to burn it out. If the area needing repair is small enough I would suggest just welding in a sheet metal patch. The repair is going to be covered with carpet or a mat in the end so using a dedicated floor patch panel from a catalog is not really needed as I have found out.

Yeah, I agree. I actually bought a panel for it but as a Boeing engineer once told me the first rivet driven in a hole is the best one (structurally) no matter what it looks like. Since there is only about 3-4 inches bad I'm going with a fab patch. That's when I ran into this rivet thing.
I'd post a pic, but haven't figured out how yet. Still new with this site. No doubt I need to learn.

When I replaced both my floor panels I actually used a smaller version of the rivet myself. When you cut the floor loose the support where the bolt goes through wants to rise up. Since it welds to the edge of the panel on the transmission side which is now gone. I actually put a temporary bolt into the frame to bring the support bracket back level to allow me to weld everything up. I then drilled a hole through the new panel and removed the bolt so I can pull the cab.
I plugged this hole with a 7/8' chrome push plug. You can see it in my pictures. I understand why a person would do it since some
floors will actually hump up a bit in this area depending on the level of rust out around the support.

http://community.webshots.com/user/RugerWSM?vhost=community

Thanks Brad. You nailed it. I was beginning to think I was the only one with a rivet installed in the support. Didn't think about the floor humping. Perhaps the factory only did it when needed and thats why there isn't any discussion about it.
BTW, great pic's for what I'm doing.

It was probably riveted at assembly in order to make a bad fit fit. Drill it out and replace it with another rivit or bolt.

very nice pics brad, but just wondering where you got the replacement parts. thanks, jake

I bought the panels from two vendors: I bought by comparing price with shipping since none are close to me. I also bought the floor panels that have the toe board attached as this is a difficult joint to make depending on the level of rust out on the cab you are working on. I also would recommend working one side at a time. I put the floor panel in first and made sure the original bolt/mount was aligned and made before welding. I also cut out the minimum amount of surrounding panels as I worked to keep everything aligned as much as possible. I used lap joints where possible since this is much easier than trying to butt weld panels in some of the areas under the dash. As I worked my way to the outside I butt welded the final outer cowl panel.

www.ClassicParts.com

www.truckandcarshop.com

'''''''Yeah, I agree. I actually bought a panel for it but as a Boeing engineer once told me the first rivet driven in a hole is the best one (structurally) no matter what it looks like. '''''''''

something tells me the PO was not a rocket scientist

when i pulled my cab and replaced it instead of using the round/square rubber button the vendors sold ya. I used a 1/4'' x 3'' hard rubber strip about 12'' long, this now is fitted along the entire ''wing'' of the frame that matches the under cab steel support brace arm, thus providing much more support to the cab. the cab bolt goes through the rubber piece at the far end, i 'pop' rivited the other end so it would not move. sorry that roll of film didn't pass thru the camera like i thought it did, so no pics.... darn --- that was my whole frame completed and painted too !!! ouch