The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk removal of brakes from 58

Hello,
I am taking the opportunity to work on my brakes since the cab is coming off and I wanted to get the proper procedure for removing the master cylinder, brake lines, hoses etc. so that I can refurbish
I have the original drum brakes and master cylinder and hoses. The lines are stainless steel which I do not think are original. Your suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
Brian

Hey Brian,

I'm gonna be doing that myself very soon. I've rebuilt the master cylinder before but that was many years ago. I don't remember it being too difficult to remove and if you get under there it will probaby be self explanatory. These old trucks are pretty straight ahead. I love it!!

My advice is:

1. If you have doubts, take pics before you start
2. Take pics and notes as you go if you think you'll need 'em.
3. Save and label all the old parts
3 On the brakes themselves, do one side at a time so if you need to see how something goes back together you can look at the mirror image on the other side.
4.Get a good set of flare nut wrenches so you don't round off any fittings

It's best to get a copy of the repair and maintenace manual for your truck. It includes detailed photos of how things go together/come apart.

Antny

"Manual? MANUAL? We don need no stinkin manual!!"

LOL! Actually, you are probably right.....these things are put together so simply!

Thanks guys! I have the service manual, they are helpful but its always better to read the manual and talk topeople that have done it. I just rolled into my garage and I am gonna start crackin'

RTFM, LOL

I use alittle trick for getting the brake shoe return springs off. I simply take a shoe string or a wire, and loop it on to the return spring. Place a gentle pressure on the spring to stretch it out and unhook it from the keeper. It works great for installation too. I never could figure out how to do it with those brake drum plyers.

Old Golds #4 is the best tip. Big Daddy is awful strong to pull on those springs like that. These brake spring pliers you get now don,t work near as good as the old ones used to. I used the same one for 50 years & it finally broke & now I have several different ones but none as good as the old ones.

That must be some strong shoe string your using? I busted my cheap Chinese brake pliers. So I got [censored] off and used the broken half to pull the spring into position. It slipped off and my elbow slammed into the spring hanger at an incredible velocity. I was close to passing out and hurling from the pain. Luckily I didn't break anything, but sure is gross removing hunks of your own flesh off your frame. Still have two more springs to install...

Take lots of pictures of how everything was before and during disassembly. The master cylinder is simple to rebuild, as are the wheel cylinders. I found the hardest part on the master to be disassembling it after 45 years. Make sure and take pictures of the brakes, the springs are specific in where they go. If something doesn't fit going back together, stop and review your notes.

Devin

There is a crank-like tool that works for removing and installing the return springs. The large open end has a hole that fits over the anchor pin, with a ramp to slide under the spring to remove it; the other end has a step in it to hook over the anchor pin and stretch the spring over the anchor to install it. You should also buy a cylinder hone and plenty of brake fluid to use for honing oil. Use alcohol for cleaning the parts. Don't bother with 'brake cleaner', its expensive and mostly alcohol. You can get medical rubbing alcohol for about a dollar a quart most anyplace. That works fine. And if you draw blood during the process, you have a ready supply of antiseptic available. If the cylinders are badly rusted or pitted, either replace them or get them sleeved- I don't know who offers that service, but its available. If you hone them, there is a maximum over-bore size, but at the moment, I don't remember what it is- .005" I think. Trouble with that is, I haven't seen brake cylinder gauges for sale anywhere in recent years, and they were a specialty item when they were available. You can use an inside micrometer if you can find one that fits, but that still leaves you without the over-bore limit. You can buy cylinder hones at most auto supplies, and Sears. I prefer the type with three stones, but two will work. Make sure you get a hone that fits both diameter and length of the cylinder; length is mostly important for the master cylinder. When you hone a cylinder, work the hone back and forth to give a cross-hatch pattern in the bore. That way you don't take off too much metal in one place.

A cylinder kit should have good instructions for re-assembling the cylinder, but sometimes you get extra parts that are for different applications. So as others have advised, watch what you do and keep all your old parts until you are tired of looking at them- and everything works. And the cup part of seals goes toward the pressure source- the flat side goes toward the piston in wheel cylinders.

The brake spring pliers mentioned by others were mostly used to remove shoes with riveted linings- you hooked the big-hook end of the tool into a rivet hole and and the small hook into the spring, then streched the spring to disconnect or re-connect it.

Also, buy yourself a spring compressor to use on the coil spring retainers that are lower on the shoe. You can remove and replace those springs and lock washers without the tool, but your patience is likely to wear out, and so will your fingers, before you get all those springs and lock washers installed. The tool looks like a screwdrive with a large open end that is knurled inside to grip the washer while you hold the 'nail' pin in place while you remove or install the springs and washers. The tool usually costs around 10 dollars, but is eminently worth the cost.

Also, if your truck is a half-ton or a passenger car, I didn't pay attention to what you are working on, the brakes are 'energizing' brakes, which means that you have primary and secondary shoes. The primary shoe is shorter than the secondary, and goes in the front position of the wheel. If you mix primary and secondary shoes, you may not notice anything until you really need brakes- then you will get really unpleasant surprises.

Hope this helps.

Harvester

I replaced my intire brake system with all new parts including dual master. I took pictures, had the manual, and tagged and bagged all old parts for refference. I would recommend the dual master and new slaves, depending on how old your system is. I also recommend the the brake tools, I never used an old one but the ones I got at the auto store worked well and I did not nick up my new springs. good luck.