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I finally found another engine. I went to Leonard, TX to pick it up. It looks good and was told that it ran when it came out of the truck.

I looked up the numbers and it is a 55 vintage. Looks like it is either from the 55 task force or maybe 56. I got the 3 speed transmission with it. The PO put a floor shifter unit on it. I want to pull that and will need to put the column shifter levers back on. I plan to put it in my 55 task force to drive.

Problem.

It is frozen. Hopefully, just stuck since it has not been used to for some time. I don't know this time frame. The engine is fairly clean, painted blue (original paint?), and with not telltale runs of oil, grease, or coolant streaks.

I hope I got a good buy.

Any advice on how to proceed?

I was going to pull the plugs and put something in the cylinders. Not sure what. Drain the case (look at what is in there) and replace with clean oil. Check the fluids in the transmission. And then try to get it to turn over.

Any other advice?

TIA

You might try a little kerosene in the cylinders before putting oil in them because it might have shellac build up on the cylinder walls and the kerosene will help cut that. After adding oil let the engine sit for a day or two and then try rocking the crank by hand. If it feels like it's loose enough,put some power to it without letting the motor start to see if it's freed up. If it was up to me I would pull the distributor and oil prime the motor checking to see if oil is reaching the rocker assembly. Good Luck with it.

If you want to minimize your costs do yourself a favor and do not put any juice to it until you can turn it by hand.

If you want to minimize your rebuild expense, pull the head and have it serviced. Inspect the condition of the cylinders and pull the pan, pull some bearing caps and inspect the bearings and crank journals. When an engine sits that long the list of things that go wrong with it is long and ugly. Rusty cylinders, rings rusted to cylinder walls, valves frozen in place by varnish are some of the big ones.

For every braggart who claims he shot some lube into the cylinders and "she fired right up" there are 5 regretful guys replacing bent pushrods and valves. If you want to keep the engine, have it rebuilt and you'll have a bulletproof powerplant that will outlive you.

Woody,

Thanks for the advice. That is the way to do it. I agree. I have one in that process at the moment. Nine years in that process. I was hoping this one could get me and my truck down the road until that "new" engine is completed.

My 55 has been sitting in my driveway for 9 years waiting patiently for me to finish her heart. I think that I am over anxious to get an engine in that truck and cruise on down the highway.

So. I would like to do everything I can to see if this engine would run and give me the satisfaction of riding in my classic truck until the "perfect beast" comes home to roost.

Not what you wanted to hear. Is it?

Drew, thanks for the input.

I was thinking of pulling the distributor, the side cover to check the push rods, and valve cover to check the valves.

Thanks for the advice on cylinder freedom.

I am never sure how to try to turn over the engine. Is it at the harmonic balancer or flywheel. Again the transmission is connected. Is that a problem. If it is in neutral that should not be a problem. But do I need to worry about the clutch? Do I need to push that in? Humm? If so, maybe that is why it doesn't turn over when yanking on the fan belt. Oh, the fan belt is new.

Thanks to all that replies and have thought about me and this engine.

In that case, get it to turn over by hand and fire that sucker up! For all that's made about doing it right, these engines are tanks and will give you service even in terrible condition.

I had my head serviced - all valves ground, seated and the head decked for $75. I'd say that's a bargain for the peace of mind. I could bolt my engine back together today and drive it if I just needed something to get me on the road... rusty cylinders and all.

Gonna take more than a 'yank on the fan belt' to get most any motor to turn. Try one of these. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...9&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Doug

Just a suggestion....pull the dust cover off the bottom of the bell housing. This will expose the flywheel where you'll want to affix a C-clamp. With the plugs out, transmission in neutral, and a little light penertating oil in each cylinder, gently ROCK the flywheel back and forth (just a little) to see if she'll come loose. This gentle rocking will normally break stuck rings loose without breaking them to pieces. Once you get just a little movement have someone watch the rocker arms to make sure the valves aren't stuck also.

Once you get it to turn over a couple revolutions by hand with everything free, you can use the starter to run a compression test. I would be more concerned getting an idea of the condition of the valve train....the light lube in the cylinders will boost your ring seal. If you've got a burned valve it will be obvious.

Keep your fingers crossed as you might find, as I did, that the stuck engine just might loosen up and be a good runner! Good luck!

Dave

Thanks Dave,

I needed your encouragement. I just want to see what I have before tearing it apart. As you said. I may be lucky and found a driver. That would be cool.

Other questions. The engine is mated to a 3 speed transmission. I currently have it on a dolly with wheels. If I put it on an engine stand I will need to take the transmission off. What will come off if I do that? And will it be hard to get it back together or should I continue to work with it all together?

I have even thought of putting in the 55 task force for doing what Dave suggested. This is a lot of work.

Not sure how to proceed.

Any help in suggestions.

TIA

First of all- - - - -purchase price- - - -(Yeah, I know this advice is a little late)!

Any engine I can't hear run and do a compression check, etc. gets an offer of "core" value only, what I'd be willing to pay for one I intend to do a full rebuild before running it. I've been burned too many times by PO's who "just parked it a couple of months ago". Cheap is good- - - -free is better!

Get some Kroil from Kano Laboratories in Nashville, Tennessee.

www.kanolabs.com

Put about 3 or 4 ounces in each cylinder, through the spark plug holes, let it sit a week, and gently pry on the starter ring gear teeth with a carpenter's wrecking bar to see if the flywheel will move. Any restriction calls for a stop, and change direction move. If you can get the engine to make a full turn, it's probable you can proceed with trying to start it.

While you're waiting for the Kroil to work on the stuck rings, pull the valve cover and soak the valve guides with the same stuff, using a small pry bar on the rocker arms to be sure the valves aren't stuck in the guides. Any solidly stuck valve or piston calls for a full teardown and rebuild.
Jerry

Jerry, thanks. I just ordered some Kroil and will soak the cylinders. I appreciate your help and advice. If this doesn't work I will move on to plan B.

Again. I hope that I am lucky and found a decent driver motor.

Excellent advise from Hotrod Lincoln. I just want to add a note. Several years back the engine in my 38 Chevy was stuck. Instead of buying and the waiting the shippng time for a penetrating oil product, I took the advise of an older friend. (I am near 61 and have been twisting wrenches since age 15)
Mix 1 quart of Dexron transmission fluid and 1 pint of DOT3 brake fluid. Follow Hotrod Lincolns advise by waiting a week (pour some of this mix on the valvetrain) and then grab the crowbar. Do not try to spin the flywheel, but gently try to move it in 1/4 inch increments. Once you are able to move the flywheel 2 or 3 full revolutions, you should be able to now rotate it by the harmonic balance and fan belt. Have a friend watch the valvetrain to avoid any binding. If you have success FIRE THE SUCKER UP.... Brake fluid will snatch the paint off your fender, so it will also cut dissolve the varnish build up. Dexron has rust fighting and detergent additives. Look at the inside of an automatic transmission (used) and note how clean the internals really are.
A good friend, who has built quite a few streetrod motors, uses 4 quarts of Castrol and 1 quart of Dexron for engine breakin period.
I actually drove my 38 around town off and on for several weeks before changing the oil. I don't recommend this to anyone, even though I had no problems. Have Fun, SportTruck

I have to put in my input on this. I work on all kinds of engines and get alot of stuff given to me that is old and frozen. I feel I've done this a hundred times. I always pull plugs, blow air in holes(make sure nothing is living in there). Pull valve covers and inspect valve train for rust. Put generous amount of auto tranny fluid in each cylinder and start rocking crank back and forth. I have usually never been able to break one by hand so dont be afraid to use a bar. These things arent pianos. Just dont use alot of force at first till you get some movement. Then back and forth. After I get full rotations I change the oil,(pour some on the valve train too) hook up battery and free spin it without plugs to clear some tranny fluid and let engine run in some, and blow grundles out the plug holes. Then put plugs in it and fire it up. Since I used tranny fluid it fill fire with gasoline and not just instantly foul plugs. It will smoke like a chimney at first but the tranny fluid will burn off. I have had say a 90 to 95 percent success rate doin this. If this doent work the engine usually needs rebuild. Tranny fluid also works great to get an engine started with low compression say from sitting a long time. It seals the rings and valves and allows the engine to start. Then it burns off and your good to go.

Thanks guys. Great advice and encouragement.

I was also thinking of changing the oil. Also, pulling the distributor and turning the oil pump to fill the galleries with oil. That should help. Does the oil pump go clockwise or counter-clockwise?

I will mark the distributor to make sure it goes back in at the same place. Oh. What is the firing order? I need to check that. I am not sure if they are in the right order. Is it easy to put the right wire on the right plug. Does the number 1 wire go on a certain connector on the distributor and the rest go in sequence clockwise or counter-clockwise?

Again. Thanks for all the input, advice, and encouragement.

Most of these sixes are firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4, front to back. For confirmation, the order is usually stamped into the intake or exhaust manifold somewhere easy to read, if it's not covered in dirt and rust!

Not sure which way the dizzy turns. Maybe pull the distributor cap, see which post the rotor is pointing to, and follow the wire to plug to see which cylinder you're on. Then, when you get it freed up, and turn it a little, you can see which way it spins. Then, yes, the plugs go in firing order in the direction of rotation, so as long as you know where you are when you start, you can get them back on in the right order.

Oops! Have you already pulled the plug wires?! Did you keep track? Of course, if you get it turning, you can also prob. find the TDC mark on the front side of the flywheel - not sure where the inspection hole is on this motor?

Hope this helps. If not, plenty of smarter people here than me!!!

Very exciting - I applaud your enthusiasm for getting the engine going again - there are no words to describe the excitement of an engine you've "saved" starting up for the first time in a long time! Good luck!!!

-Michael

oldbluetruck,
First I will wish you good luck. Next I will tell you what I did (not that I recomend this). When I got my truck I didn't have a good record of when or if it ran last. So this is what I did after I chocked the wheels of my truck and once the gearbox was in neutral. I will also note the additional things that I should have done had actually thought about it.

1) Remove all spark plugs (mark wires first -saves time later trust me on this.)
2) Disconect the battery. (there wasn't a battery in my truck but safety first)
3) Squirt oil/penetrating fluid of choice into all cyclinders
4*) Pull distributor and prime oil pump and verify that oil gets up to the top of the engine. (I didn't do this and found out shorlty after the fact that I wasn't getting oil to the top end)* I didn't do this but recomend this.
5*) Pull Valve cover and inspect vavles. (* didnt do this either)
6) I then rotated my engine via the Fan. There were a couple of spots where it would slip and I was forced to rotate it via the crankshaft pulley.
7) Connect a Fully charged Battery to the starter.
8) Squirt more oil into cyclinders
9) Then I hit the Starter button and rotated the engine for a few seconds.
10) I then hooked up a Gas can to the Carb. A section of Rubber Fuel Line hooked to the vent nipple of a plastic gas can works really well, at least it did for me.
11) Reinstall the spark plugs and wires (remember marking the wires this is were it pays off to do so)
12) Hit the starter button and pray!
With some luck (I had to have plenty) you will see sparks of life from your engine. I didn't get mine to start right away. It actually took me a couple of days. The timing was way off.
But I did get it to start and run. She smokes, but has plenty of power. I am pretty sure the vavle guides are shot and that is the cause of my smoke. From one of the lucky ones, I say go for it. Good luck!

For laughs read this post and then this posting.

Unfortunately, the engine is in pieces again at National Cylinder Head in Orlando (the coming discussions about the 36K mile warranty should be interesting). I've got a whole another chapter to add to this sorry saga. STAND BY FOR NEWS! as Paul Harvey puts it.

I sure hope you have a better experience than me.

Don

I did posta reply but I think it went up into cyberspace.
I've been through all that stuff with my original 1941 216 engine that was welded solid after being stored in new Guinea for two years.
Same problem with three other similar engines I got for free.
The whole four of them are now in a foundry in China someplace to be made into cheap machine tools.
I was at a standstill, almost gave up.
BUT a moderator of the forum saved the day, he had located 1952 engine a guy was trying to sell in Central Australia at Alice Springs. He said it had been full reconditioned to new status and the previous owner had spent $6000 on it and it had not yet been refitted to his truck, because he was a buying a 350 Chevy V8 to repower his rig.
I told him over the phone, if that was the case and it was genuine, I'd offer him $1200 for it. he said OK, you have it.
It took me and buddy 3 days and 2150 kilometres to get there through the desert route from Cairns on the northeast coast and the engine was abolutely everything he'd said it was. We popped the smp and tappet cover and it was like looking at a new motor out of the factory.
Didn't have oil in it,AT ALL. And turned over easily.

Have alook for yourself at http://groups.msn.com/ZaccasStovebolts
and I owe that to Woogeroo, that seller was an alright kind of feller.
Thanks mate, its a beauty!

Hi all,

Again, thanks for all the replies and encouragement. I know I did what most of you think is crazy. Which is buy a motor without hearing it run or checking it. But I did it and pray for the best. I appreciate all your comments and advice.

For what's it worth the engine is mine and sits on a dolly in my garage. It is a nice semi clean blue, the valves look nice - but won't turn over. There is a lot of old dirty oil under the valve cover and the spark plugs were black. I have made the concoction of Dextol and brake fluid which I put in each of the spark plug holes. I have let the engine sit over the weekend with this fluid mix in it. Oh, I pored some over the valves, too.

Saturday (after one day of the soaking) I put a braker bar on the flywheel and the engine popped. It moved a little - not much. Yesterday (Sunday), I put the bar to it again. It moved a little more. I have faith that it will turn and I can move on to the next step.

I am thinking of draining the oil pan. I would be able to see what is in the oil. Maybe, it would just make me feel better. I could put some clean oil in the engine over the valve train. Something to do while praying for it to come to life and become a driver engine.

This is the best I can do.

Oh, does the oil pump go clock-wise or counter clock-wise?

Again, thanks.

Dennis,

"Oh, does the oil pump go clock-wise or counter clock-wise?"

Depends on your orientation. The distributor shaft drives the oil pump and the distributor shaft rotates clockwise if you are looking at the top of the distributor.

So, if you are looking up at the oil pump gears from the bottom of the engine (pan removed), the shaft-driven gear is turning anti-clockwise.

If I am wrong, we'll quickly read about it.

Tim

Tim,

Thanks for the information. I have an old screwdriver that I have twisted the handle so I can make the screwdriver paddle for my drill. I just needed to know which way for the drill/pump to go.

Thanks.