The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Sticking pushrods on a 216 ?

Does anyone have a quick, easy fix for sticking push rods? Something that does not include pulling the head, hopefully.

What are they sticking too? All they touch is the rocker at the top and the tappet at the other end below. What makes you think they are 'sticking'?

I believe that they are sticking because:
I have bent two pushrods.
I hear tapping, more than what I consider normal.
I have seen a valve slowly come up to the top. I was excersizing the valves during a valve adjustment.

Lusty1, It is not the push rods that are sticking, it is either misadjusted valves or valves that the valve stems are all crudded up and they are sticking in the valve guides. At this point I am opting for the misadjusted valves. In case you aren't adjusting your valves correctly here is what I usually send others who need this information.

To adjust lifters on 216-235-261. Here is the correct procedure.
First-
Your valves are laid out this way- from front to back-
#1 exhaust,
#1 intake
#2 intake,
#2 exhaust
#3 exhaust,
#3 intake
#4 intake,
#4 exhaust
#5 exhaust,
#5 intake
#6 intake,
#6 exhaust
This procedure can be used on either Hydraulic or Solid lifters. Just know which kind of lifters you have for final adjustment.
Turn the crank (by hand) until #2 cylinder intake valve (look above- it is the third rocker back from front) is observed to start opening (that means the rocker is pushing the valve down and open). Now turn the engine slowly and notice that #1 cylinder exhaust (first rocker)valve will also start to open. Continue cranking until #2 cylinder's intake valve is wide open, AND then notice that #1 exhaust valve is also coming to the wide open position. (#1 exhaust valve lags a little behind #2 intake valve) Continue turning (slowly) until both valves are wide open.
With these two valves wide open adjust:
Solids: intake-.006. exhaust-..013 (special note: if this is 1 1/2-2 ton truck exhaust is .020)
Hydraulics: adjust until just touching and no or very little wiggle of rocker can be felt.
Adjust:
#1 cylinder intake
#2 " exhaust
#3 " both
#5 " intake
#6 " exhaust
Now turn the crankshaft one full turn until #5 cylinder intake is observed to start open. Lagging behind will be #6 cylinder exhaust. Continue turning the crank until both of these valves are wide open and then adjust:
#1 cylinder exhaust
#2 " intake
#4 " both
#5 " exhaust
#6 " intake
Now you engine will be ready to start and let it idle for 30 minutes till completely warm and do the final adjustment.
It has been brought to my attention that I didn't give the final adjust for hydraulics- Tighten down until no noise is heard (use a section of hose to your ear and to the tappet if needed) then tighten one(1) complete turn (1/4 turn at a time and wait ten seconds).
If you don't know whether you have solids or hydraulics- Pull the rocker cover, loosen one rocker, pull the push rod, drop the side cover off, pull that lifter. Now take it to a machinist or mechanic and ask him which it is. OR, once you have the lifter in hand look to see if it has a hole in the cup (top) end and will push down in the center, if it does, it is hydraulic, if not it is solid

Get your engine warmed up and slowly dribble ATF down the carb.This will help to free-up the sticking valves.You will need to rev-up the engine(by hand at the carb) when doing this.Do it until you get plenty of smoke out the exhaust.Run the engine afterward to clean out the residue.

You can confirm sticking valves with a simple vacuum guage test - see http://www.centuryperformance.com/vacuum.htm.

Marvel Mystery Oil down the carb might help too.

Gotta be sticking valves ,rockers, or tappets.