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9 members (klhansen, rfs56trk, Bill Hanlon, 1955 1 Series, DHedrick, Otto Skorzeny, 39Master85, greenie-reddy, Peggy M),
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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,087 Posts1,056,399 Members48,442 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 111 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 111 | I finished installing all new brake system, dual master, new slaves, pads, pipe, and hardware. I used the dot3 as you guy's advised. I bench bleed the master installed and bleed the brakes starting with left wear [longest line] then right rear, then front right [longest line in front]and then left front. the master came with a 4 inch plunger treaded into a clevis pin that bolts to the lower end of the brake pedal. I could not adjust this out anough to remove 3 inches of play in pedal prior to engaging the piston or to bleed the brakes and had to make a 5 inch plunger out of a number 8 3/8" bolt. the pedal still seems to feel soft for the first 1 1/2 of travel, then it is hard and braking is felt at the wheels. I have adjusted the pads untill they grab and then backed them off just a little. Any ideas on this? or do I need to make a 6 inch plunger. Has any one install this dual master kit from CCP in a 55 2nd 3/4 ton and if so how did it go?
any help appriciated. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 111 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 111 | Sorry about the confusion, I meant to say CPP, Classic Performance Parts. Also I solved the problem and now have perfect brakes. I still needed the longer 5 inch pin from the brake pedal to the piston of the master cylinder, however the real problem was that I had not completed the pad adjustment as called for in the shop manual. you first adjust the lower star adjuster until you feel drag, then the top adjuster to eliminate the drag, hit the back of wheel with a rubber hammer to make sure the brake pads fall into place and then repeat the process untill adjusting the top adjusting nut will no longer remove the drag. once I had done this to all the drums the brake pedal was nice and stiff at the top. hope this helps someone else because I was scratching my head for several day's
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 565 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 565 | Good info. I hope to do the same upgrade in the future. Thanks.
"Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just leave me alone, you're starting to freak me out."
1957 GMC 150
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