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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,164 Posts1,056,982 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 198 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 198 | I have the 55 1st edition AD truck which has open driveshaft. My front end is factory stock I-beam. If I lower the front of the truck, and also the rear, via mono springs (probably composite versus steel), by about 4 inches front and back, will I need to change the Pitman arm or anything else in the front end? Or, can I literally just bolt on the mono springs? (after fighting to remove the old nuts and bolts  ) Jim G | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 1,464 | The mono's should be pretty much a bolt on deal. Mine were. You prolly won't get 4" of drop, more like 2-3". My drag link wasn't level but it didn't seem to matter since the mono's didn't compress much while driving, so I got very little bump steer. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 70 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 70 | Performance online makes a pitman arm for lowered suspensions. I suppose it's bent, like the pitman arms made for raised jeeps. They cost $69.10, part no. 18236 | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 60 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 60 | AFTER YOU INSTALL THE NEW SPRING, AND HAVE THE WEIGHT OF THE TRUCK FULLY RESTING ON ALL FOUR TIRES, CRAWL UNDER AND DETERMINE IF THE DRAGLINK RUNS UPHILL FROM THE PITMAN ARM TO THE STEERING ARM ON THE LEFT SPINDLE. THE IDEAL, WOULD BE FOR THE DRAG LINK TO RUN SLIGHTLY DOWNHILL. IF IT DOESN'T, YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO USE A ROSEBUD TIP ON A TOURCH AND HEAT A LONG [6 TO 8IN] SECTION OF THE STEERING ARM AND PRY DOWNWARD SOME UNTIL THE DRAGLINK WAS MORE LEVEL. DON'T FORCE-COOL THE STEERING ARM BY BLOWING COMPRESSED AIR ON IT, LET IT AIR COOL BY IT'S SELF. WATCH FOR ANY POSSIBLE INTERFERENCE WITH THE SHOCK AND ADJUST IF NECESSARY. GOOD LUCK.... | | | | | Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 198 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 198 | Thanks, guys.
You've told me what to look for. Sounds like I might get lucky, or if not, you've given me two different approaches - the replacement pitman arm and the heating method.
That should make things a lot easier. Thanks again.
Jim G | | |
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