The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop If lower front, need to change Pitman arm or anything else?

I have the 55 1st edition AD truck which has open driveshaft. My front end is factory stock I-beam.

If I lower the front of the truck, and also the rear, via mono springs (probably composite versus steel), by about 4 inches front and back, will I need to change the Pitman arm or anything else in the front end? Or, can I literally just bolt on the mono springs? (after fighting to remove the old nuts and bolts )

Jim G

It depends.....

read through this thread....

http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?t=2098

Dave

The mono's should be pretty much a bolt on deal. Mine were. You prolly won't get 4" of drop, more like 2-3". My drag link wasn't level but it didn't seem to matter since the mono's didn't compress much while driving, so I got very little bump steer.

Performance online makes a pitman arm for lowered suspensions. I suppose it's bent, like the pitman arms made for raised jeeps.
They cost $69.10, part no. 18236

AFTER YOU INSTALL THE NEW SPRING, AND HAVE THE WEIGHT OF THE
TRUCK FULLY RESTING ON ALL FOUR TIRES, CRAWL UNDER AND DETERMINE
IF THE DRAGLINK RUNS UPHILL FROM THE PITMAN ARM TO THE STEERING
ARM ON THE LEFT SPINDLE. THE IDEAL, WOULD BE FOR THE DRAG LINK
TO RUN SLIGHTLY DOWNHILL. IF IT DOESN'T, YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO
USE A ROSEBUD TIP ON A TOURCH AND HEAT A LONG [6 TO 8IN]
SECTION OF THE STEERING ARM AND PRY DOWNWARD SOME UNTIL THE
DRAGLINK WAS MORE LEVEL. DON'T FORCE-COOL THE STEERING ARM
BY BLOWING COMPRESSED AIR ON IT, LET IT AIR COOL BY IT'S SELF.
WATCH FOR ANY POSSIBLE INTERFERENCE WITH THE SHOCK AND ADJUST
IF NECESSARY. GOOD LUCK....

Thanks, guys.

You've told me what to look for. Sounds like I might get lucky, or if not, you've given me two different approaches - the replacement pitman arm and the heating method.

That should make things a lot easier. Thanks again.

Jim G