The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop lowering my 1953 3100

I recently bought a 1953 3100 that I plan on mildly customizing. I want to drop it some but not in the dirt. I don't want to butcher anything because I may restore it to original someday. I want it to be more of a vintage custom. Anyway, so far I've bought a 4" dropped axle for the front and I've got some 700-15 bias ply tires on the way. I'll be better able to tell what I want when I get the steelies and tires on. What's the best way to lower the stock torque tube rearend? I'm trying to find the best and most cash friendly method. With the axle already mounted on top of the springs that limits my some. What the max lowering blocks I could use? I'd rather not c notch the frame in the rear for clearance. Monoleaf springs and lowering blocks? Help!! Just looking for some advice.

I put 4" lowering blocks in the rear of my panel,,thats about the limit.I have a 4" drop axle in the front.

Lowering blocks are a lot cheaper than mono's. You could go 2" lowering blocks in the rear plus pull 2 or 3 leaves out which should get you another 1" plus.

I don't believe lowering blocks will work with a torque tube rearend. The rearend has to rotate inside the spring perch because of the solid link with the torque tube. The best thing would be to switch over to an open drive system.

If this is incorrect, someone will step into to give you the right method.

Thanks for the info. I suspected the same with the closed torque tube and that was my dilemma. I didn't initially want the open driveline but it may be my only option. Like you, I'm not trying to get my truck in the weeds, there is just a certain stance I want. I may contact you later with some questions if you don't mind. I've been on your webpage before and you do really nice work. I think I contacted you at one point about a Edmunds valve cover?? I finally got the valve cover and the intake.

Thanks!!

If memory serves correctly lowering blocks work just fine on torque tube rear ends. The "hinge point" , if I can call it that, is at the yoke at the back of the tranny, not at the spring perch.

Waldo is correct, lowering blocks will work just fine on your enclosed drive line. You can also gain an inch or two of drop on the rear by installing a pair of front shackles on the rear leaf springs.

Dave

Whatever you do, for safety sake, make sure that nothing hangs down below the plane of the wheel rim lines. By that I mean draw an imaginary line connecting the bottoms of all 4 wheel rims, and make sure that nothing is below that line. If you experience a tire blowout, anything hanging down below that line will prevent a controlled stop.

This is something that is critically important on "slammed" rides.

Antny

Thanks for great info. Good point about the pivot point of the driveshaft being at the transmission. With all the suggestions I figure I can drop it fairly low without changing the driveline much. I appreciate all the input. Using front shackles would not have crossed my mind. Thanks!!

Is the rearend different on the AD versus Art Deco?

The spring perch on the Art Deco trucks has a saddle that the rear end sits in. The axle housing definitely moves inside the spring perch. There is a groove in the perch and a tab on the rearend that sits in that groove.

I should have said my experience was with my 1940 truck.

The rear-end does rotate up and down. I pulled out the torque tube and installed a pumpkin from a 55 w/limited slip, set the angle on the yoke and welded the spring perches so the rear-end couldn't move. Been using this rearend for 15 years with no problems. Just another avenue on the rearend. Sorry to hyjack the thread.

Mike

Well, we live and learn. The torque tube I was thinking of was on a '48 Chev Aero coupe I had a long time ago. I just bolted 4" blocks on 'er and she was good to go.

I agree with Bill. My 46 had the enclosed driveshaft and when I took it off the truck I found grooves for the spring perch to rotate. The saddle was not attached to the axle/rear housing assembly. It was held between the spring and the axle with the u-bolts. It's all in my shed if you need pictures. I went with and open driveshaft.

Listening to all the responses I'm beginning to think the open driveline once again may be the way. This is my first real experience with a attempting to retain a torque tube in a modified truck. My Dad restores '30s and 40's Fords so I'm familiar with them just not modifying or dropping a car with one. So I see that the axle housing has to be able rotate within the spring perch because of the rigid connection between tube and axle housing. The axle housing will move in an arc I guess w/o a rear U-joint. Kind of like Corvair half axle shafts. If lowered without some provision for axle housing rotation could be a problem, right? If this sounds right let me know.