The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Is any one familiar with full flow oiling, including to hydraulic lifters.

It appears that full flow refers to the type of oil filter and its associated plumbing. I was looking at a machine shop, Becks,
( http://www.inliners.org/becks/ ) and they refer to a "The "Full Flow" Process" that includes pressurizing the hydraulic lifters. Has anyone dealt with them? Has anyone done something similar?

lusty1,

There is an old post on this topic but here is a brief run down:

1. The full-pressure or high-pressure oil system was first available in the 1954 235 and 261 truck engines. In 1953 the full-pressure oil system was used only in Powerglide car engines - this was not a truck engine and it had hydraulic lifters. Prior the 1954, all 216 and 235 truck engines were low pressure engines, with oil (rod) dippers for lubricating the rod bearings.

2. An oil filter was optional on all 216/235/261 engines. A full-flow oil filter was optionally available on only the 1958-1962 261 truck engine. A by-pass oil filter was optionally available for all other years and sizes of truck engines (from GM or Fram or others). In a by-pass oil filter system, only about 20% (?) of the oil flow is by-passed through the oil filter. In a full-flow system ('58-'62 261 engines) 100% of the oil flow went through the oil filter.

Thus, low pressure vs high (or full) pressure oil system refers to the lubrication system in the engine; and, by-pass vs full-flow oil filter refers to the optional oil filtration systems.

I think there is a link on the Tech Tips page for converting to a full-flow oil system.
Other things to note:
- A full-flow oil filter system can be replaced with a more modern spin-on oil filter (through use of a converter kit).
- A by-pass oil filter should not be installed on a '58-'62 261 engine.

Good luck. I am certain that others will correct me where/if I am wrong.

Tim

Lusty--

I think that Tim's post is completely accurate. The well written tech tip on this site is really about a "Full filtration oil system" instead of a "Full pressure" oil system as it is entitled.

My understanding is that the work performed by Becks on 216s and early 235s regarding the "Full Flow Process" is that this involves both full filtration and increased pressurization to 45 psi. You need to comfirm this. I have not used Beck's but have never heard a complaint either on this Board or on Inliners. My understanding is that Beck's does good high quality work and you are charged accordingly.

If you do check them out and get to yakking with them, it would be nice to know about their full circular rear main seal--price, whether that fits the 235 or just the 216, whether that can be purchased directly and seperately, etc. Those rear leaks are pesky and I am sure there are many here that would appreciate your post on this if you talked to Becks.

Becks specializes in converting babbitt/dipper motors to full pressure/insert like the later 235's.

Tim;
Any leads on who markets or sells the adapter for the full flow system? I have a 261 that I would like to add it to. TIA.

49 geezer,

I spent way too much at Jegs and Baker Precision (after asking for advice, with no luck):

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1825&prmenbr=361

http://www.bakerprecision.com/adapt5.htm

A few weeks ago I went to Pep Boys and near their electric radiator fan display was an adpter set with hoses and fittings for less than $25. 1/2" NPT is the size of the holes in the block. You do not need high pressure hoses or fittings 100-150 psi should work fine. I attached the oil pressure "sender" on the output side of the spin-on filter head. Let me know if you want a few pictures posted.

Tim

By all means post links to pictures

Tim;
Try the pictures please. A picture is worth a thousand screw-ups. Thanx

Was looking at Jim Carter's site about "The Forgotten 261". In it he states that "Warning!" "Oil must leave and return to the engine by these lines (even if the filter is eliminated) or the engine will fail from lack of lubricant. Many 261's have been quickly seized after persons plugged the two oil line holes."
Hey, mine are plugged and the P.O. apparently drove this truck quite a bit before I got it. Any feedback on Jim's statement? Does this mean that you need a line from one hole to the other to keep flow adequate?

geezer,

The engine came with no filter and the oil circulated in the block with the oil filter outlet/inlet plugged. When a filter is installed a bypass inside the filter-line hole in the block is removed or shifted. Once an oil filter is properly installed on a '58-'62 261 engine, if you plug the oil filter lines the oil no longer circulates in the block (and you lose the engine very rapidly).

Thus if you never had an oil filter on a '58-'62 261 engine, there is no problem with plugged oil filter line holes. If you ever had an oil filter on a '58-'62 261, never plug the filter-line holes (if for some reason you need to remove the full-flow oil filter assembly, it is OK to run a line from one hole to other).

Maybe someone else can offer a better explanation.

Tim

Thanks for the feedback gents. I appreciate the information.

Sorry it has taken so long to post pictures of a spin-on filter adapter on a 1960 261 engine. This engine had the optional full-flow canister oil filter and has been adapted for a remote full-flow spin-on filter.

This is the spin-on oil filter assembly attached to the firewall:
[img]http://home.nycap.rr.com/lederman/images/OilFilter2.jpg[/img]

You can almost see where the lines connect to the block:

[img]http://home.nycap.rr.com/lederman/images/OilFilter1.jpg[/img]

By the way, a set-up like this is available (with lines and fittings) from Pep Boys for around $25. However, the brass adapter on the oulet of the filter head has a fitting for the oil pressure gauge - this adapter came with the factory oil filter.

Tim

[img]http://www.inliners.org/Jack/261plug.jpg[/img]

This picture shows how the oil flow path is controlled. The arrow points to a dowel plug in the block. On this engine, the oil lines are plugged off and the dowel is in the "out" position - flush with the block surface. When the filter and hoses are installed, this dowel must be hammered into the block. That diverts the flow
out to the hose fitting just below. Use extreme care doing this - hammering on a frozen plug can crack the block.