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| | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | Hello,
I had originally posted a thread regarding removing my cab.
The results are in and it is going to come off.
I need some tips on removing:
1. The Ignition from the dash
Is there a special tool for removing the face?
2. Brake pedal:
Can I just dissconnect the pedal from where it bolts to the lever that goes to the master cylinder?
3. Parking Brake:
Where is the best point to disconnect the brake?
4. Steering Wheel
I have read a bunch of the threads to day and I will get the puller, what else should i disconnect? Is there a proper order of procedure that could impact the steering?
5. Clutch/tranny:
Where is the best place to disconnect the pedal?
Where should i disconnect the shift column?
As always thanks,
Brian
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 | Hello,
I had originally posted a thread regarding removing my cab.
The results are in and it is going to come off.
I need some tips on removing:
1. The Ignition from the dash
Is there a special tool for removing the face?
It's been a while since I removed mine, but I recall it being held on by a big nut on the back of the dash. Crawl under there and take a look at what you have.
2. Brake pedal:
Can I just dissconnect the pedal from where it bolts to the lever that goes to the master cylinder?
You can try, but it's probably on there very tight. The taper might be rusty and bonded to the recess. I removed the pivot pin and took the entire assembly off. Then used heat from a torch to loosen the tapered joint.
3. Parking Brake:
Where is the best point to disconnect the brake?
Under the dash, pull the pivot pin and presto.
4. Steering Wheel
I have read a bunch of the threads to day and I will get the puller, what else should i disconnect? Is there a proper order of procedure that could impact the steering?
I removed the center nut, and tapped the column with a brass mallet while pulling up on the wheel. Popped right off. To remove the column from the steering box though, I had to torch it off. Didn't bother me as I was upgrading to a rack and pinion anyway.
5. Clutch/tranny:
Where is the best place to disconnect the pedal?
Again, at the pivot point.
Where should i disconnect the shift column?
Under the hood, at the column-mounted linkage.
These trucks come apart remarkably easy. Hopefully, you have a repair manual for yours, which includes diagrams showing how things come apart/go back together. Just study the manual before attempting the work, and it should go very easily.
Hope this helps.
Antny
As always thanks,
Brian | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | ANTHONY,
Thanks I was hoping to get a reply this afternoon so I could do the work tonight!
Thanks,
Brian | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I'll add a bit to this. The TF trucks used a nut on the front side of the ignition, you can take it off using a pair of snap ring pliers in the slots. You just have to be carefull not to let it slip. On the steering wheel, I would advise caution doing any type of hammering on the end of the shaft. This can damage the bearing races in the box. I prefer to use a puller, which can be easily made with some 1/2" bar stock and some bolts. Just drill 3 holes in a roughly 3-4" peice of bar stock, the 2 outer holes matching the distance between the 2 threaded holes in the wheel (under the horn contact). Those will be drilled the diameter of the bolts. Then one in the center of those holes, tapped for a 3/8" bolt. Install it with 2 3/8 20 bolts of the righ length, use another in the center, a few turns, and the wheel will pop rith off, with no damage to any other parts. 'You will have to remove the steering box ot get the cab off. You'll need a pitman arm puller (available from the flaps or Sears) to remove the pitman arm, 3 bolts on the frame that mount the box. it will come out after that, you'll have to slide it out through the hole in the cab, as the column does not come off from the box.
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | Brian - the ign sw has a threaded bezel on the face with 3 small notches in it that can usually be loosened by lightly tapping on a screwdriver in one of the notches - NOT a nut in back of the dash
yes, the brake and clutch both have bolted points just under the floor, neither real easy to get off, but just work at'em
do not torch the steering column!! the steering box unbolts from the frame and the whole assembly is removed downward, out of the cab from under the truck - easier if it's jacked up a bit
you'll have to remove the shifter "knuckle" at the top of the column, loosen the clamping joint halfway down to take off the top part, and remove the lower arms from the shifter box on the column under the hood - should be able to leave that lower box on
Bill | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | Thanks Bill and Bill, Again. Well I ran into a few problems tonight. 1. removing the firewall liner, tar etc. took longer than I thought and since I removed the Heater, I just had to clean up behind it a bit...then i got started on disassembly. The windshield was a bit rough and I will ask for help next time. where i got stuck... 2. removing the steering box....just did not know what exactly to unbolt Red 58 can you confirm i need to remove the Pitman arm? 3. ignition, i knew there was not a nut, i have a bezel with four notches, i am a bit timid about using a screw driver on the chrome face. Maybe I will try putting something between the driver and the bezel. 4. The clutch pedal, I got the nut off but the pedal still seems frozen 5. The wire harness, I am not sure what I am going to do on this one yet...ithink i will sleep on it. Here are the pics from last night. http://community.webshots.com/album/562151161qjTlGQThanks, brian | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | just tedious Brian, keep at it! the easy way to get a winshield out is to cut the seal on the outside, stripping away the flange that sits on the glass all the way around, or at least sides and top, then push it out from inside, evenly yes, the pitman has to come off, then there's 3 [4?] bolts that hold the box on, from inside and out the bezel really takes a special tool, but you can usually get it with a slot screwdriver, or use long nose pliers held in place in 2 notches while you use a rod thru the jaws to turn - put a cloth over the tips the upper arm of the clutch pedal fits in a taper, pulled tight by that nut, with the nut still in place you'll need to take the hammer to it, hopefully that penetrating oil will help, but it's always a struggle, block between the lower arem and the cab floor so the force isn't wasted I'd just leave the wiring for the time being, doesn't add any weight  Bill | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | Cool Thanks Bill,
You know its interesting but there is a bus for sale that looks similar to yur project near my home, I am going to snap a few pics and take a closer look at it.
I think I will just label and disconnect the wires for now (good idea Bill).
Stay warm,
Brian
Last edited by briang; 01/16/2008 8:59 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 | just tedious Brian, keep at it! the easy way to get a winshield out is to cut the seal on the outside, stripping away the flange that sits on the glass all the way around, or at least sides and top, then push it out from inside, evenly yes, the pitman has to come off, then there's 3 [4?] bolts that hold the box on, from inside and out the bezel really takes a special tool, but you can usually get it with a slot screwdriver, or use long nose pliers held in place in 2 notches while you use a rod thru the jaws to turn - put a cloth over the tips the upper arm of the clutch pedal fits in a taper, pulled tight by that nut, with the nut still in place you'll need to take the hammer to it, hopefully that penetrating oil will help, but it's always a struggle, block between the lower arem and the cab floor so the force isn't wasted I'd just leave the wiring for the time being, doesn't add any weight Bill These posts jogged my memory - I stand corrected re: the ignition switch. I used a screwdriver and gently tapped the ring nut til it loosened enough to remove by hand. Regarding the wiring harness, I hope you intend to replace it with a new one. Last thing I'd recommend is to re-use a 50-year old wire harness on a newly restored truck; it's much too risky. Regarding the brake and clutch pedal arms; you are better off removing both the upper and lower arms as single units. Once you have them on the bench, you can work the joints to get them apart. Mine required heat from a torch to finally work loose. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 76 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 76 | Brian, I don't know what kind of highth you have to work with, I have a 12 foot ceiling in my barn, and with a chain fall I lifted the cab up and over the sterring column, with the sterring wheel pulled of course. I used a 3 in. wide tow strap around the roof of the cab, mine was long enough to wrap around twice and lifted front of center, the firewall being heavier than the rear. It came up nice and level, and rolled frame ahead to clear the column. The pitman arm comes off fairly easy with a proper puller if you decide to go that route.
Mike | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | Thanks Mike,
I have the height but I am going to drop the column. I picked up a puller for the Pitman arm at Sears, if anyone cares they are only 7$.
As far as pulling the cab I am goinf to have to do it with muscle. The rafters in my garage simply will not support the weight.
Thanks,
Brian | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | Hello,
I have one item left to go...the headlight knob. Anybody know the trick on removing this one?
Thanks,
brian | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | Find a button on the side of the switch. Hold the button in while pulling the knob and shaft out of the dash. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | button on top of the switch, like a small nail head ... then the bezel, similar to ign sw
Bill | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | Thanks Cletis and Bill!
I will check it out tonight.
Also thanks for your help on the other items, it has gone very smoothly.
Best,
brian | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 141 | Hello,
My dad had an idea for removing the cab that I thought was a really good method for someone like me lacking the lifting equipment. I thought I run it by the forum and see what you guys thought.
The idea is to jack up the chassis, remove the bolts, then support the cab with either bracing or a suspension with to belts, then lower the chassis back down.
What do you guys think?
Thanks,
brian | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | yes, that's a method some use, if you suspend it with straps thru the door openings you can roll the chassis out from under and set the cab on a stand - another way is to put some 2x4s thru and jack up the cab seperately
Bill | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 424 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 424 | I removed the body from a '41 Fjord coupe by myself using that method. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 41 | Hello,
My dad had an idea for removing the cab that I thought was a really good method for someone like me lacking the lifting equipment. I thought I run it by the forum and see what you guys thought.
The idea is to jack up the chassis, remove the bolts, then support the cab with either bracing or a suspension with to belts, then lower the chassis back down.
What do you guys think?
Thanks,
brian I really like that idea! Kudo's to your dad!! | | |
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