By "pulling truck" do you mean sled pulling at the county fair? Or a trailer on the road?
If it's a 1 ton or larger I say leave the frame it has under it and add 4wheel drive. The bigger problem with a new or old frame may be finding a strong enough driven front axle that is narrow enough to fit without trimming the fenders or an extreme lift.
If you just want to stick a cab on a frame and try the truck pulls then most any will work.
To do well it looks like lots of fabrication is needed. I went to my first truck pull this year, (to pull my truck for fun) and I had no idea how serious those people were. Most of them had purpose built trucks with some serious modifications, I can't fully describe how the frames were set up and the changed suspension system, looked really weird, reminded me of a pair of scissors some how??? I will say that most all of the trucks at the truck pull looked really cobbled together, real backyard engineering so to speak.
If you are serious about truck pulling I would go to a few and learn from what others have done, and you may find some people will talk to you and give ideas if you ask the right questions.
If you just want to put a frame under your cab and drive it, then find an original frame.
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
Okay you need to spell out just exactly how you want to use the truck.
When you ask a quick one sentence question you should not be surprised when you get a quick one sentence answer. Spell out some detail about what you need and you'll get an answer that responds to that detail.
Or use the search function and you'll find I and others have already asked and answered a lot relevant to towing with an old truck.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
ok I want to take my 1949 chevy pickup cab an front clip I have an put it on a frame that will hold up to do truck pulls thats pulling a Seld. I want to go in to the class around here thats called 6800 lb class. I need helping finding the frame that is going to hold up an that is going to work under my 1949 chevy cab.
An original 1 ton or short wheelbase (137") 1.5 ton should be fine.
I pulled a 61 Ford f350 with a Detroit Diesel 6V53T, about 300HP, and did better than half the class, about 20 trucks total, no problems with the truck or frame. So I think an original 1 ton or 1.5 ton frame should be fine.
Here is a video of the one and only time I pulled, not real good quality but the noise is good..
I was in the class called "street legal diesel" mostly new 1 ton 4x4 pickups, no weight restrictions, my truck weighed 10,000 lb.
I'll second OldSub's provide plentiful and good information get better answers. Why don't you sit down and type up what your plans really are? What engine, transmission, rear, will it be driven on the street, how much, what other uses, how much money are you looking to put in it, and anything else important.
Power is subjective and dependent on RPM. Torque is actual and measured. The higher the low-end torque, the taller a frame you need to resist twist.
One thing that I have seen is stacked frames on a few trucks. Two 3/4T frames stacked on each other with minor modification
I agree, an original 1 or 1.5T frame would be sufficient for your needs however dependant on the suspension geometry and design that you will be running.
Like Oldsub and Grigg mentioned. Plan the truck first. Class, Rules, weight, power requirements, engine location, tires, wheels, axles, gear ratios, suspension, steering, fuel tank location, weight transfer, CG location, suspension adjustments, etc. once that is done, sketch out how that all fits together. Then draw in where the cab is going to go. After that, determine if a stock frame will work as is, with minor modification, or do you need to start from scratch.
You may find it easier to start with a clean sheet and build the frame that you need. I have helped design many rectangular tube frames for mud-running and rock crawling vehicles for friends who play in the mud and roll-over test their vehicles. Usually 3/16" walled 2 x 6 (Jeeps) or 2 x 8 (Trucks) tubing with 2 x 6 or 2 x 4 cross-members is what I used with the 4-link being tied to 1/2" plate that also mounts the transfer case. Skid Plates were made out of 1/4" plate with reinforcement and mounted to the cross members to protect the oil pan, transmission, and transfer case. Driveshafts were retained in cages
Scott
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me