I am glad this helps everyone who is interested.
Jan from Belgium
I make my own goofjuice,I think I will go get a refill!
Earl[GMC1937]
I really haven't taken down dimensions or made any drawings of what I have done except for the transmission adapter plate and unfortunately I chucked it. This happened almost a year ago and it was only because I had become a little discouraged and overwhelmed with the truck. Everything that I was checking, to make sure it was safe and mechanically sound, wasn't and I figured I wasn't going to be doing this again, so why keep it and why bother taking pictures. I wish I had now.
The list included brakes, kingpins, bent front axle, all steering linkage, wiring and lots of evidence of being rode real hard and put away wet. I almost put it all back together and was going to sell it.But I got over it.
What I can tell you about the adapter plate is that the dimensions are 7 1/4" x 10 1/2" x 5/8" thick. You will have to find your centre of the T5 on the plate first. How I did that was, I went flush with the top of the T5 cover and the plate and placed the lower mounting ears of the T5 equally inwards from the outsides of the plate. That is a good starting point. A digital Vernier Caliper is really good for doing your measurements. The clutch housing side of your plate will be machined off 1/8" except for a 1/8" square pilot ridge. The outside diameter of your pilot of course is the diameter of the clutch housing hole. The other side is the diameter and depth of the T5 bearing retainer. The mounting holes were measured radiating from the outside circumfrence of the bearing retainer, up and down and across from each other. You will also have to transfer the mounting hole locations from either the clutch housing or original transmission onto your pattern and then plate. I used a piece of countertop Formica to do this, it is thin, hard and easy to cut shapes into it. Four T5 mounting holes I drilled and tapped 1/2". The two bottom holes, plate to housing, were tapped to 1/2". The two top holes were drilled and tapered for a tapered flat top 1/2" bolt. The bearing retainer holes were hogged out for the appropriately sized metric tapered flat top bolt.
The master cylinder brackets are really left up to you. The one on the transmission,I just measured in between the ears on the trans. and went down far enough to catch the M/C bracket. I used 3/16" plate for everything except the top flange, that was 1/8". The M/C / pedal bracket was broken and welded up very poorly, so I could only work with what I had and made, I feel, the best of it that I could. The e-brake bracket was the same. For this one though I took measurements from the top of the floorboard to the pivot point on the brake lever and from the clutch housing to the pivot point before I pulled the original transmission out. All the brackets were measure, cut, fit, tack, cut again, fit, drill, etc., all that time consuming stuff. I hope this helps a little at least.
Brett [Cavebull],
Your series of photos are a real inspiration. Nice work.
Yes my brakes are original with new cylinders and shoes. The master cylinder that I am going to use [first and only I hope] is from a 1981 Mustang, NAPA # TS101764, comes with pushrod. The reason that I am using this one is that the original M/C has, I believe, a 1" bore, feeding 4 wheel cylinders. Using this particular M/C has a 7/8" bore with two separate resevoirs, each feeding two wheel cylinders. The smaller the bore size, the higher the pressure you can create with the given pedal ratio but along with also, longer pedal travel. I am hoping that the dual 7/8" master cylinder will perform favorably with better than original performance. I will see a couple of months from now. If the pedal travel is to far, I will go to NAPA # 39011, 1" bore. Same shape and fitting size. This one is off a 1986 Ford 1/2 ton. Hope this helps you out.
Brian
Brians40
